restaurants

01/11/2012 - 15:46

 Maybe because I just moved from NYC to Chicago, I was a little insulted by this little rant the New York Times published on the horrible life of a vegetarian in the Midwest. Of course, she lumps the entire Midwest into her rant, even though it seems the author has only lived in one Midwestern city, which is Kansas City. 

So, yes, I’ve “eaten” at some of these famous restaurants. There was the meal at the Golden Ox steakhouse (baked potato), Stroud’s fried chicken (rolls) and Arthur Bryant’s barbecue, where, searching for vegetarian options on the menu, skipping over the lard-bathed French fries, pausing to consider the coleslaw, I ordered the safest option (a mug of Budweiser).

I'm sorry, but that just made me laugh, because this whole lard revival thing is going on right now in New York City. Maybe lard never left the menu on Kansas City, but in NYC right now, a lot of fancy restaurants are BRAGGING about the animal fat they are using to make their fries. In fact, I created a Dinevore list of various restaurants that use duck fat for their fries in NYC. It has 12 restaurants and I'm sure I'm missing a few. In fact, one of the most famous restaurant empires in NYC, David Chang's various Momofuku ventures, are explicitly vegetarian-unfriendly. 

So I'm not sure what the point of harping on about lard was, except to write an article to make New Yorkers feel smug about themselves. I would say that New Yorkers can feel quite smug that they do have better vegetarian and vegan food though. I like to eat an occasional vegan meal myself, but so far the vegan food in Chicago seems to be stuck in an era of vegetable oil and wheat (would you like some breaded soy nuggets fried in vegetable oil??) that most vegan food in NYC has escaped.

But at least I'm not lobbying to have bread baskets burned. Back in the 1980s, vegan activist front Center for Science in the Public Interest lobbied for fast food restaurants to trade their animal fat for hydrogenated vegetable oil. Unfortunately for them, it became clear that synthetic trans-fats are probably the worst thing you could possibly eat.

But they are still in use in some fryers and the oils that have replaced trans-fats, industrial soy and canola oils, really aren't that much better for you. Nothing seems more backwards these days than trading lard for vegetable oils. Lots of New Yorkers know that. In fact, it's super easy to get very high quality lard in NYC, which I haven't found to be the case in Chicago. Oh the irony. However, Chicago has redeemed itself by having tallow fries at Longman & Eagle.*

 

* not that fried carbs should ever be a dietary staple, but it's nice to know when you are having an occasional treat that you are not downing a cup of vegetable oil crap for no reason

 

10/23/2011 - 12:11

 One thing I will miss in NYC are the fantastic restaurants. I particularly applaud the trend of restaurants that go whole hog and use real bone stocks and animal fat in their dishes. Obviously, these restaurants are pretty vegetarian-unfriendly and have been a little controversial. 

Unvegetarian, unapologetic animal eater restaurants

The Momofuku restaurants were instrumental in jumpstarting the pork belly and rich broth trends. There are several restaurants in the group (and one in Sydney and Toronto now). There are plenty of vegetables on the menu, but often they are drenched in delicious pork fat. One of the best dishes is chanterelles with bone marrow, a luxurious and fatty combination, but only available seasonally. The various traditional Southern Hams make an excellent appetizing and the offal dishes are not to be missed. 

I think Salt & Fat, which is in my neighborhood in Queens, is a little inspired by Momofuku and also be Williamsburg's excellent Traif. Their appetizer is bacon-fat popcorn, which is amazing. I recommend the yellowtail tartare, the delicious ribs with homemade BBQ sauce, the incredibly rich salads with all kinds of animal fat bits, and the hearty oxtail terrine. 

I'm mentioned Takashi like a zillion times, but that's because it's a temple of delicious meat and they do offal so well that it's the perfect place to try crazy things. I LOVE the sweet breads. They seem kind of scary at first, but they melt in your mouth. The liver is also not to be missed. I don't usually like liver that much, but their liver is marinated so perfectly that it's delicious raw. I've never had anything I disliked on the menu and I think I've eaten almost everything on it. 

I really like Fatty Cue because they use lots of delicious animal fats with dashes of fish sauce for flavor. The dishes are salty, fatty, tangy, and spicy. I particularly recommend the coriander bacon.

Because it's Brooklyn, they actually probably have some real vegetarian dishes at Palo Santo, but the chef here cooks everything else with real house-made animal fats and stocks. The cuisine spans many countries in Latin America and uses ingredients from many local farms. 

Vegetarian Restaurants I actually eat at: 

Saravanaa Bhavan is one of my favorite places for Indian food. I love idlis, which are steamed fermented rice/lentil cakes served with a spicy soup called sambar.

Rockin Raw makes an excellent raw-vegan cinnamon roll that's gluten, soy, and nut-free. When I crave a sweet treat, I go here.

Occasionally I get a weird craving for falafel. Organic Avenue's raw falafel is oil-free and gluten-free. To me, it tastes as good as the real thing.

Bacon Branzino @ Salt & Fat

 

06/12/2011 - 19:38

Weekend meals are waaay fattier for me since I have time to cook and Chris is here and lower in carbs since I seem to suck at storing roots and found that all my potatoes had sprouted. 

Friday: fasting, ate some Thai Papaya salad at office lunch

Saturday: 

Breakfast was eggs, plantains, and Spring Lake Farm bacon from Meatshare. Chris had some yogurt and berries. 

Dinner was at Takashi with Patrick from PaleolithicDiet.com. I've mentioned this temple of raw and lightly grilled meat before. The first course is raw meat and the second is cooked. We enjoyed the raw liver (seriously it's good and I don't know how they make it taste so awesome), raw chuck flap with sea urchin, raw chuck eye tartare, and flash-boiled shredded achilles tendon. Second course we had "the tongue experience," heart, kalbi, sweetbreads (HIGHLY recommended, like a piece of delicious fat), and beef belly. I also recommend the stomach and cheek.

Sunday

Oops, I exhausted my eating out budget for the week, so I only ate what was already in the fridge. For breakfast we had "double yolk" baked eggs adapted from Michael's Genuine Food, a cookbook from a chef in Miami. They have a layer of tomato sauce and sour cream, a layer of eggs (mostly yolks), and a layer of cheese. I just made a small dish of these baked in the toaster oven (my summer oven since it doesn't heat up our tiny apartment) and it was very satisfying. 

For lunch we had some pork chops from Spring Lake Farm and yogurt with berries. We drank some cold-brewed Oolong tea. 

For dinner we had a leftover hash inspired by the hash at Red Rooster in Harlem. I baked some sweet potatoes in the toaster oven until crispy, tossed in some chopped bacon, cooked some plantains in the bacon fat, and topped with key-lime Hollandaise sauce. Fantastic! We had some small, but fatty goat chops from Glynwood farm and some hibiscus cinnamon tea. I like that Hollandaise tastes pretty darn good even when I mess it up and it's lumpy...I'll try the Alton Brown method next time. 

 

06/08/2011 - 21:51

 I'm perfectly comfortable with blood, guts, and that sort of thing. But when it comes to the food of simple Americans, I can be quite squeamish. There is nothing so horrible as things such as meatloaf, casserole, "hamburger helper," or lasagna. Add some steamed mixed frozen vegetables and I'm in Hell. I'll never forget the one horrible summer at camp in Wisconsin where I was served mac & cheese with pearl onions and pieces of boiled ham. 

In a tiny bookstore in central Illinois I discovered that this sort of horrible cuisine devoid of true flavor has been adapted for the low-carb lifestyle. I unfortunately neglected to record the name of this dread Necronomicon placed upon the dusty shelves of Jane Addam's of Champaign. But this recipe will live in my nightmares forever:

Busy Day Cake

1/3 cup coconut oil or butter. Hmm sounds OK...

1/3 cup soy protein isolate OH GOD 

2 tablespoons vital wheat gluten flour NOOOOO

1 cup ground almonds

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon SteviaPlus

6 packets sucralose

1/2 cup cream thickened with water

2 eggs 

vanilla extract

I won't record the exact specifications of this miserable recipe for fear of what innocent souls might encounter if the instructions were to be followed. The victim might think they were following a healthy diet because it is low in carbs and be mystified when they feel like crap and accidentally eat the whole thing despite a complete lack of true culinary virtue. Don't worry, paleos" are victims too. I once ate half a tray of "paleo" cupcakes. Baked goods of any sort are really not a good idea for anyone, no matter what they are made of. Reminds me of what I feel are the habits of highly ineffective dieters:

- Candy cigarettes: sorry "paleo cupcakes" are still cupcakes and are not healthy food

- Low quality food

- Foods of neolithic invention such as breaded and deep-fried foods. 

- Food that is engineered by food scientists to taste good. Be very suspicious of anything made in a lab. 

- Liquid calories. 

- insipid food. I part ways with Stephan here in that I don't think blandness is key. I think very bland food is very satiating, but so is very complex food with many spices, fermented sauces, bitter and unusual flavors. 

I think the meal Chris and I had after we went to the bookstore illustrates this. Portions were very small at Bacaro, but we left satisfied. Flavors like black truffle in risotto, liver-based sauces, and olive oil gelato walk the line between grotesque and delicious that puts you in a state of culinary satisfaction without incitement to overeat. 

We also had an incredible lunch at Blackbird in Chicago. The portions here were also very small, but the flavors were unlike anything I'd ever had. Smoked ham hock with sturgeon, lamb with lavendar and broccoli, and licorice root for example. My new goal is not to eat out unless it's something really good like this. 

Perhaps this jives with Seth Robert's set-point theory: 

3.6.2. Birth of the idea. In June 2000, I visited Paris. The food was excellent. I wanted to eat three meals per day but to my surprise and disappointment I had little appetite, even though I felt fine and was walking a lot. I realized that the new weight-control theory suggested an explanation: It had been hot and I had drunk two or three sucrose-sweetened soft drinks each day, about 630 kJ (150 kcal) each. All of them had been new to me because they were brands not available at home. The novelty meant that their flavors were not yet associated with calories and therefore would not have raised my set point. They had been sweet, of course, a familiar flavor that presumably was associated with calories. But maybe sweetness was effectively a weak flavor, I thought, and what I had observed was another instance, similar to Example 9 (sushi), of bland food reducing the set point.

 

My weight loss definitely coincides with my growing interest in complex flavors. Of course it's very possible to get fat on Haute Cuisine; there are plenty of expensive restaurants serving baskets of bread and fried cheese balls (maybe a fancy cheese, but still very stimulating to the appetite). 
 

04/11/2011 - 18:09

 I'm dedicating this week to Soybean Oil, an ingredient I think all rational people should be able to rally against. Despite massive amounts of scientific evidence that large amounts of omega-6 oils are bad for anyone, this ingredient remains common in our food supply. 

This year I was VERY VERY disapointed to find that Chipotle uses it in almost all their ingredients besides their pork. I don't know why I never knew this, I guess it was an instance of "maybe if I don't look at the ingredients I don't be upset."

Chipotle is one of the rare fast food outlets that tries to source meat decently and the salad bowl has been a favorite of mine for a long time.  

This week I'm going to devote a blog post a day on why we shouldn't use this ingredient. This will culminate in a paleo flashmob of sorts at the Chipotle Test Kitchen in NYC. If you are in New York, please join us!

04/02/2011 - 20:25

 Last month I made the move from Brooklyn to Queens. There were several reasons for this, but I already love Queens, probably more than I love Brooklyn. I never felt perfectly comfortable there for some reason. Organic food, farmer's markets, coops...what's not to like? I guess I found it boring, kind of like the suburbs.

Brooklyn gets all the buzz, but Queens is really where culinary talent is. In Brooklyn's yuppie core, getting anything salty, spicy, of offal good is awfully hard. In Park Slope an owner of a restaurant I used to go to a lot told me he wanted to serve spicy food, but he couldn't sell it. When I would occasionally get Thai for takeout, it was mediocre and cloying. 

Contrast that to Queens, which is a place where restaurants representing cuisines from all over the world serve things like bone marrow soup and spicy pork belly. All we need to go is get them to source the meat better, but that's a whole nother post.

Right after I moved to Sunnyside, a restaurant called Salt & Fat opened. It's become one of my favorites. Um, as you all know, Salt & Fat are my favorite things and unlike normal people, when I saw the sign I thought "yay, health food!" 

Since I'm a weirdo and I think bacon fat is healthy, I've now eaten there several times. I definitely recommend it and if you go get the oxtail terrine, a block of delicious braised crispy fatty umani goodness with luscious silky mushrooms. 

From an Edible Queens article that calls it "A carnivore’s answer to sticky toffee pudding" and a "meat brownie"

Also check out the Branzino. It's cooked with bacon fat and the skin is wonderfully crispy:

my own crappy pic

If you want more NYC recs check out my Dinevore Paleo Restaurant List. Create your own and add it to the list on Paleohacks!

 

02/25/2011 - 20:31

Between moving, work, school, and the very very sad state of my inbox, I haven't had much time to post. 

I haven't had much time for anything, which is why I've been eating out quite a bit. I've had a bit of a sea change recently because I found out that my staple eating out food, Chipotle, isn't so great. It just reminds me that you have to question things you love after awhile or you'll get burned. First I found out via Diane from Balanced Bites that Chipotle uses soy oil. I hadn't looked at their site for awhile, so I guess I hadn't noticed. And since carnitas has SO MUCH natural fat WTF are they using soy oil for? It makes me very afraid that for "health" reasons they are skimming off the pork fat and replacing it with soy oil or something awful like that. 

Also, it turns out the meat is sourced less carefully than I thought. A few years ago I heard some Chipotle executives speak at a conference and I thought they were pioneers at sourcing well, but according to Nate Appleman, their new spokesman "The chain uses local and organic ingredients when practical and meat from animals raised without antibiotics or added hormones."

What does "when practical" mean? And without antibiotics or added hormones is a sad low standard. It's like saying "we raise these animals without tormenting them with daily sessions of Justin Bieber's greatest hits." 

Once I started getting disillusioned with Chipotle, I started thinking...why bother? NYC is full of nice restaurants using pastured lard, duck fat, and other good foods, but to be honest I don't live or work near those restaurants. So if Chipotle is not that great, why not patronize the local Thai joint that uses a mixture of olive and canola oil? I even found that after talking with the owner, I could get some dishes made with just coconut fat. Supporting a local business + delicious food = win. After moving I kind of went on a bonanza of doing this and honestly I feel great. Maybe it's because coconut is so dominant in many of the local cuisines (which include Thai and Filipino)? Maybe my gut is fully healed? Maybe conventional meat isn't so evil? (though I definitely want to get more local/grass-fed meat on the market). Either way, it's amazing to be eating out and having great digestion too. I'm really enjoying exploring all the cuisines of the world, which is a major benefit of living here. Whenever I can, I ask these local restaurants about what fat they use. If people ask, perhaps they'll change. The local Thai joint even brags about having wheat free food now. Trans fats are banned here, so the only ones I worry might be used are corn or safflower oil. 

It brings me to the point that while I think lard/tallow/duck fat are great for me, they probably aren't a public health solution. If I went to a health conference and said restaurants should use them, I'd be laughed at. But high-oleic seed oils ARE definitely better for you and perhaps not even bad for you. They are possible to produce cheaply and are considered highly by almost every conventional standard. Imagine if they replaced soy and corn at restaurants and in schools? That would be a solution that would benefit everyone. 

Instead we have public health programs that encourage things like eating low-fat and "moving more." I was somewhat amused when I read that Rush Limbaugh said Michelle Obama had gotten fat from eating ribs. It's quite clear that Michelle is not fat and I wonder if Rush got the right conclusion

Michelle My Belle, minus the husband, took the kids out to Vail on a ski vacation, and they were spotted eating and they were feasting on ribs, ribs that were 1,575 calories per serving with 141 grams of fat per serving. Now I'm sure some of you members of the new castrati: "This is typical of what you do Mr. Limbaugh, you take an isolated, once in a lifetime experience, and try to say that she's a hypocrite." She is a hypocrite. Leaders are supposed to be leaders. If we're supposed to go out and eat nothing -- if we're supposed to eat roots, and berries and tree bark and so show us how. And if it's supposed to make us fit, if it's supposed to make us healthier, show us how.

 Hmm, I'd venture that she's healthy because she doesn't follow the government's advice- because she's eating ribs rather than tofu. Wouldn't that be hilarious. Kind of like how her kids don't attend government schools perhaps? Meanwhile, Rush is losing weight by restricting his calories, which may have caused a recent bout with chest pains. Maybe he should just eat ribs and stop worrying about calories? 

Some of you asked if I could re-post my list of meat priorities I did on paleohacks. Here's how I chose my meat:

1. My first choice will always be grass-fed local meat from farmers I know. 

2. Generic grass-fed beef or lamb, wild fish. 

3. Organic beef or lamb because of highly favorable fat content.

4. Pastured poultry or pork. 

5. Halal beef or lamb(or goat) is more likely to be grass-fed because it's often imported from New Zealand. In addition, some Hispanic restaurants import their meat, particularly Argentine places. New Zealand and Australia pasture most of their ruminants. 

6. Natural beef or lamb. Natural is kind of vague, but it's better than nothing I guess.

7. Feedlot beef or lamb. Spends at least some of its life on pasture. 

7. Natural chicken = really just a factory farmed mass of soy.

Things I won't eat: farmed salmon, CAFO pork

Notice I will eat a wide variety of meat. For me, not being hungry and being nourished is more important than anything. I'm not the kind of person who will order a plate of greens in the absence of perfect meat. 

It's funny because when I eat out, the places that make me feel the worst are the healthy places. Ugh, I think hell is other people's idea of healthy. Like my office cafe, which stocks such healthy options as low-fat strawberry shortcake yogurt, those sugar-packed Odwalla smoothies, Special K, and Vitamin Water. I would definitely get really sick if I ate those things, but I feel awesome after going to the local Argentine place for a skirt steak and plantains. Another offender for me is BBQ places. At first I thought it was the meat that was bad for me, but then I realized that the sauces at most BBQ restaurants is full of total crap. Sugar + meat = bad. 

01/25/2011 - 17:18

I'm still paying for this weekend. No, not in hangovers, but in thigh soreness from Tabeta squats, which my body was introduced to on Saturday at our Crossfit intro meetup. Yes, this is a great motivation for actually start working out at Crossfit. I do squats sometimes, but I was really impressed...and so were my thighs.

These days I have been pretty busy with school and work, hence the last of posts lately. So I'm going to be lazy and just blog about food. But apparently people like that anyway. One of my favorite columns in NYmag is New York Diet, which asks various NYC luminaries to record what they are eating. This one, about the Bronx's "food baron" is my favorite.

So what have I been eating? 

Friday morning I had some lamb broth with a dash of Hawaiian clay salt.

Work is always a bit sticky. My job is very far from where I live and there really isn't a kitchen in the office. So I do eat out, though sometimes I get stuff at the local grocery store. But on Friday we all have lunch together. This time we went to a decent Italian place that thankfully had more than just pizza. I had some bony rabbit and potatoes. Not great, but held me over until dinner, which was at the wonderful Thistle Hill Tavern. My date and I shared some spicy pickled beets, carrots, and onions. Then he had some milk braised pork belly and I had duck confit with spinach, blue cheese, and marcona almonds. For dessert we shared a goat's milk panna cotta, which was perfect: tiny and not too sweet.

For Saturday brunch we went to Juventino with friends. They had grass-fed beef tongue, eggs, and bacon. My handsome date had grassfed steak and eggs. I had some pork belly with a tiny bit of truffle cream potato gratin. After our tough workout, we nerded out about science at the Ace Hotel, where we snacked on pickles and lamb fat.

Later we hit up the local Korean BBQ, where we had a selection of meats, kimchi, pickles, seaweed, savory egg custard, spicy broths, and a little too much Makgeolli, which is unfiltered sake. Unlike some Korean places, we didn't need to bother about asking for our food without rice. The only hazard was the soybean stew.

 

 

On Sunday we didn't eat breakfast. Later in the afternoon I made a made-up version of a frittata, which was really more like a baked omelette because I never looked up how to make a frittata. It hen of the wood mushrooms from the farmer's market, raw milk cheese, and guanciale, which is jowl bacon. Then we had a side of blood pudding from Mosefund Farm and Afghan chai.

Monday I had a half duck with oranges from Fairway for lunch. Then for dinner I had some lamb spareribs cooked in the crock pot with spices and a cup of wine. As a side I had carrot sauerkraut. I'm still eating those spareribs tonight...and probably tomorrow. I'll probably be really sick of them by the end of the week.

12/11/2010 - 12:06

Palo Santo is a small restaurant in Park Slope, Brooklyn that has a bit of a cult following in the paleo community. Robb Wolf has praised the food there. It's also popular with members of local Crossfit gyms. I've eaten there many times and the food is incredible!

So when I saw that chef Jacques Gautier would be teaching a cooking class on Pre-Colombian Cuisine: Indigenous Foods of the Americas, I signed up right away!

Jacques had never heard of paleo, but he is an ardent defender of traditional foods. You'll never find bottles of the ubiquitous canola oil in his kitchen. At night he collects all the fat from the meat he has cooked and uses that as the cooking fat the next day. He never uses MSG-leaden bouillon, instead he makes his own traditional bone stock. In the restaurant industry, this is quite rare.

The concept of this class required Jacques to research what was cooked in the Americas before contact with Europe. Luckily, this food is less dramatically different than Pre-Colombian Indian (NO peppers!) or Italian (NO tomatoes!) cuisines. Of course, it's hard to know exactly what was cooked back then and some delicious liberties were taken. Some ingredients omitted included wines, oil, cilantro (we used native Culantro instead*), and onions.

Foolishly, I forgot my camera, but I was too busy enjoying the experience to take many pictures anyway. First everyone in the class had to chop up some vegetables like sunchokes and pumpkin. Then Jacques showed us how he uses stock and a traditional fermented corn drink called Chicha to build delicious sauces with meats, seeds, and peppers. Building such moles was time consuming, but the end result was worth it. We had venison in a smoky red mole and turkey in a refreshing bright green mole.

We also cooked some succotash with clams. I thought it was a brilliant and easy recipe that I will attempt at home. We used stock to cook the vegetables in: corn, pumpkin, lima beans, and sunchokes. The steam from this helped open up the clams:

Another cool thing we did was cook sea bass on a bed of seaweed, which added flavor and prevented the fish from burning.

We also ground our own masa! Jacques explained how we "limed" the corn to increase its digestibility, a traditional practice. Stone grinding gave me new respect for what people had to go through before the advent of Cusinarts...needless to say, we didn't have extra tortillas at the dinner table.

We fried our tortillas in pork fat :) In the Americas they wouldn't have had pigs, so they would have used other animal fats like turkey. Jacques told us how he saw a traditional stone-cooking setup where they had meat braising in crevices and they would scoop up the fat to fry the tortillas in.

Finally we sat down to eat our delicious foods! My favorite was the venison with cactus.

I'm definitely going to be working on building better sauces and trying out the method of cooking succotash with calms. If you are in Brooklyn, definitely check out Palo Santo.

 

* gardeners, growing Culantro is a great idea because unlike cilantro it doesn't go to seed and stop producing leaves

11/02/2010 - 09:17

I woke up this morning with a terrible hangover. And the sad part about it was that no alcohol was involved. You see, last night I had BBQ. BBQ is pretty paleo right? I mean it's meat and stuff, so why not?

Then whhhhhhhy do I feel so horrible this morning? Was it because the meat was cooked in Franken-oils? The sauce had crap in it? I suspect that, but I also have noticed that now that I'm used to eating grass-fed meat, regular meat doesn't do it for me. Frankly, the high fat content of it doesn't seem attractive to me, it just tastes gross and doesn't make me feel great. I was convinced in the past that factory-farmed beef wasn't so bad and I don't think it's *that* bad, but the results I see from grass-fed beef are so much better.

When I started a normal job last month my diet shifted from mostly pastured meat to lots of eating out and thus eating some dubious meat. I don't feel that bad, but my stomach has been a little shifty and I've gained some weight. I think this will cause me to shift further away from orthodox paleo though and focus more on food quality. Grass-fed meat is pretty hard to find at restaurants and grocery stores where I work, but grass-fed dairy is easy enough to get. And if I do eat out I'm going to be a loser and order lean meats.

Interestingly I notice that the longer I do paleo, the less fat I'm interested in. Maybe your body initially needs a lot to repair from SAD? I just don't crave pork belly or tallow the way I used to. I'm certainly not low-fat, but I'm not obsessed with fat either.

I could post about the differences between grass-fed meat and factory-farmed meat (I suspect not all of them have been discovered though), but frankly I'm going to go vote and then go back to bed. My stomach is NOT happy. Ugh.

Anyone else had this experience?

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