restaurants

08/04/2010 - 09:29

I will forewarn you with the fact that this post involves the eating of animals that many Americans consider pets. Which is a damn shame...why are American parents being food for their children to keep as pets? It precludes many delicious culinary experiences and everyone knows that parents who get Little Timmy (to use Bourdain's literary device) Floofy the Rabbit instead of Fido are just lazy. 

The Gastronauts is an NYC supper club of sorts for adventurous eaters, recently featured in the NYTimes. The meals served at that dinners are a vegetarian's worst nightmare— a morass of strange blobby organs, tentacles, eyeballs, and faces. They say macabre; I say marvelous.

For me as a (mostly) paleo eater these dinners are usually fine. Last night's was unusually good for me. Apparently, Peruvian food, besides some corn, which is served as a fresh vegetable anyway in most cases, has some great meaty options.

I found myself in Jackson Heights, Queens...actually the site of some of the city's tastiest and most adventurous restaurants. We went to Urumbamba, mostly for the guinea pig, which is called cuy in Peruvian cuisine.

Guinea pigs are certainly stupider than regular pigs and certainly not deserving of carnivore amnesty. Think of them as fattier rabbits.

But apparently the Gastronauts organizers, Curtiss and Ben, found this dish hard to procure— some people even told them it was illegal. That never stopped them though, as they have even braved torrents of PETA hatemail to ensure us diners access to seafood so fresh that it fights back.

So what was on the menu? First we had octopus in a rather ugly pink olive sauce. It was salty and not much else, but I've never been very enthusiastic about pulpo anyway.

Next up was lovely little red and orange peppers stuffed with ground beef and topped with a cap of velvety melted cheese, which burst with spicy flavor:

Next up was spicy grilled veal heart, which was incredible. I must learn some Peruvian recipes because the marination of all the meats with just perfect . Whatever they did, it brought out the best in this under-appreciated cut of meat by cutting the mineral flavors and accentuating the highly delectable savory "umami" notes. I didn't really bother with the corn, as it lacked flavor:

Black clam ceviche was refreshing tart and seabreeze salty:

Now for the coup d'etat: guinea pig/cuy. It was definitely interesting. As I said before, it does taste a lot like rabbit, but much fattier, particularly in the skin. Unfortunately, the skin was tough like pigs skin and could have used a good frying :) Some of our tablemates ate the eyeballs and the rest of the head, but what happened to the heart? That might have been nice to get on a skewer.

I found cow's foot stew the most challenging. The texture was gelatinous and unpredictable. Some pieces of foot were chewy, others melted in my mouth like little tapioca balls. At that point perhaps we were feeling a little food fatigue, but we were revived by a plate of various marinated meats, the best being fragrant unctuous lamb,  with some sweet potatoes.

Next up was a more conventional rodent, rabbit, which was just slightly spicy in all the right ways. A nice surprise was how well the juices went with the boiled cassava. I definitely want to explore cassava more, as I get tired of sweet potatoes after workouts.

 I'm definitely interested in exploring more Peruvian flavors and elements in my own cooking. Not sure where to get guinea pig meat though!

05/24/2010 - 20:44

I am having one of my favorite restaurants, Get Fresh Table and Market, so a full three-course paleo dinner this weekend. That means lots of wild fish, grassfed meat, and tangy local vegetables cooked in lard. If you are in NYC, you should definitely check it out.

We don't have an exact menu, since they cook based on what is available at the farmer's market each day, but here are some dishes I have had there:

Pastured pork belly and beets

Tender venison with crunchy pecans and tangy greens

I've also had delicious diver scallops, black sea bass, prawns, duck, and pig's head there. It's a great restaurant and I'm really looking forward to eating a fully paleo meal there.

05/24/2010 - 20:26

Is that scary or what? It's the half pig's head at hipster Williamsburg BBQ joint Fatty 'Cue. But pigs head is the best kept secret out there. It's fatty fat flavored fat. And this was more than enough for me and two guys. The best parts- the fatty jowls and cheeks. The parts I let the guys have- the brains and eyes. The tough skin and the bones went to some lucky dogs.

Most species that eat meat prize the head over any other part. Killer whales often just eat parts of the head and leave the rest to scavengers. Native Americans that made big kills often did the same. The head has tons of fat- and the brain particularly is a great source of DHA. 

At Fatty Cue it also comes with pork rinds and a delicious pineapple curry that was perfect for cutting the fattiness of the meal.

05/18/2010 - 10:37

Bets asks "Where does one even buy an eye or a nose to eat? The thought of peeling a tongue invokes pain to my core. That said, I never say never and am game."

 

From Offal Good's store

Offal can be scary, but it can also be mind-blowingly delicious. I hate to admit it, but if I had started out on offal with a bag of bloody livers bought from the farmer's market, I might not be writing this blog (the same goes for fish...I'm never would have tried shrimp or lobster if I didn't eat out). Let a good restaurant usher you into the wonderful world of offal, starting with the least-scary things- cheeks and marrow bones, which are so delicious they probably don't qualify as offal. Tongue is also delicious, but hard to cook right. If you are willing to eat non grass-fed meat, most authentic Mexican places serve it, but it's increasingly found in upscale restaurants. Liver you might not need to go to a restaurant for, since pates can be found at a good butcher or grocery store.

Eating food prepared by an expert can give you a taste of how great offal can be when prepared properly, which is a great motivation to cook it yourself. When I started cooking from Nose to Tail, I knew what I liked about offal and was able to modify the recipes accordingly. For me, the route to a great offal recipe is tons of spicy chili and lime.

I also admit to being very inspired by the offal adventures of one Anthony Bourdain.

Another reader pointed out that most of my advice seems cleared towards people in major metro areas, but I started out eating offal in Champaign, IL, which is three hours from a major city. You might have to travel some, but supporting a good chef and eating great food is worth it. Also, sometimes ethnic restaurants in American towns will have offal items not on the menu, so it might be worth asking.

My latest offal adventure was at Traif with Rhys Southan & friends. I admit I was a little scared to try the sweetbreads, but both of us have reputations as adventurous eaters to uphold and we bravely ordered them. Thankfully, they were absolutely delicious...who knew they would have so much delicious fat! I remember when I was a kid and I thought sweetbreads were cinnamon rolls and asked for some. When my grandma told me what they were I was totally appalled and couldn't believe anyone would eat such a horrible thing. Hehe. 

However, Rhys and I were sorely dissapointed by X'ian famous foods. When we ordered the lamb face salad we expected it to be absolutely ghastly, full of macabre parts of eyeballs and gums, but instead it was a mixture of nice spicy fatty cheeks and vegetables. Sometimes you want your offal good, other times you want to just eat it because it exists.

05/17/2010 - 16:41

Let's get this clear: The Humane Society of The United States is an organization devoted to animal rights. Animal rights does not mean being nice to animals, it means eliminating ALL animal use from pets, to pork, to scientific animal testing that saves millions of lives. Unfortunately, many people associate The Humane Society with being nice to kittens rather than outlawing all meat consumption. While I don't agree with everything they post, Humane Watch has done a great job demystifying HSUS's true intentions.

But many people are still fleeced. Maybe it's just me, but if you want to support small family cattle or other meat farms, why would you ally with a group whose ultimate goal is their elimination? HSUS is being rather sneaky, much to the ire of more honest AR groups, and has participated in "animal welfare" campaigns, but that doesn't change their animal rights agenda.

That was clear last week in NYC when AR groups confronted a backyard chicken keeper at a food event. It's hard to peg an organization that has "sanctuary" or "mercy" in its name. Unlike PETA, such organizations do have a generally positive reputation. But they showed their true colors by bashing small scale farmers and advocating world veganism. I love on the blog post how the Mercy For Animals guy says he is concerned about male chicks and the transportation of laying hens. Get real, even if those things stopped, these organizations would campaign against eggs. The truth is that these organizations and their agenda are very much threatened by nice small farms. When consumers visit these farms they know that not all animal product consumption is anything like what's portrayed in AR propaganda videos.

I think it is kind of silly how people think egg production is better than meat production though. In my experience, grassfed meat production is more respectful of an animal's true nature than egg production is. Chicken farmers typically order their chickens from these factory hatcheries and slaughter their layers at the end of the season. Most free-range chickens don't really range that much. Contrast that with cattle, who are often bred on-farm and often range over several acres. The benefit with chickens is that they are cheap, easy to keep, and are quite efficient at feed converters, though for us paleos they aren't the greatest food because they are almost always fed grain.

As everyone knows, I am a passionate advocate for small farms, but I think allying with organizations like HSUS to punish factory farms is NOT the way. I think that improving the infrastructure for local meat farmers and educating people about the health benefits of grassfed meat is the way to go. I'm pretty disappointed with Chipotle for supporting HSUS's efforts in Ohio for more food fascism. I sometimes used to eat there, as it's a pretty decent and consistent paleo option, but I think I will boycott. Whole Foods got a lot of hate from the local meat movement for pushing a vegan agenda in their stores, but at least they weren't trying to push for laws. Stocking your shelves with The China Study is distasteful, but on a different level than passing regulations that make life hard for your opponents.

04/21/2010 - 22:01

In the dim light, the red walls glowed the pictures of various delicious animals. Brown paper tablecloths were stained with tiny conspicuous spots of grease. We had waited a long time to be here, and we were rewarded with course after course of succulent meats with vegetables whose sole purposes were to soak up the salty fatty drippings that tasted of rich flavors- savory black pepper, piney rosemary, lemon, and garlic. Of course the meats were delicious, but what the meat did to the vegetables was even more impressive. Ramps wilted in brothy sauce melted in my mouth. Asparagus fried in lard had been morphed into a pork rind-like delicacy that crunched pleasantly as it dissolved into fat. The waitress asked if we wanted dessert- we ordered another plate of ham.

The rich flavors of that night haunted me for days, until I bought some asparagus and fried it in lard with my friend's home-cured pancetta, garlic, black pepper, and a splash of lime juice since I had run out of lemons. It was incredible and I can't wait to make it again.

It is in these moments that I'm glad I didn't chose the paleo diet's rival- the low fat diets of Ornish and his ilk. With both high-fat and low-fat diets getting similar results in studies, I don't see any reason to give up my fatty treats in favor of bowls of barley and steamed carrots. My stomach is flat and free of pains it suffered with I ate loads of gluten and sugar every day, avoiding fat like the plague.

Sometimes I miss things like the cinnamon rolls in Sweden or the buttery biscuits from my native land, but on a low-fat diet I would have had to give up these....AND bacon/pancetta/lardo/fatty steaks/lamb shank. Yeah right. Life is too short for eating rabbit food. Maybe I'm just too much of a foodie, but how can a diet that purports to improve the quality of your life exclude the best foods in the entire world? 

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02/17/2010 - 20:01

 Last week I was soooooooo busy. Between snowstorms and planning events, I had no time to go to the grocery store. I ended eating out for more meals than I care to admit, especially since I just finished The Art of Eating In by Cathy Erway. It's mostly a fun book about cooking, cookoffs, and secret underground restaurants, but it's also an impassioned defense of cooking. In New York City, land of busy people, cooking needs it! Cathy talks about how cooking not only saves money, but gives you a whole new view of food. Instead of being just a foodie, you really get to know food. 

Cathy doesn't follow any special diet, but if you follow the paleo diet, cooking is even more beneficial. You get to manage every single ingredient, which is hard in a restaurant. Yeah, you might order just meat and vegetables, but who knows where the meat came from or what oil was used to stir fry the vegetables? If you are using the paleo diet to battle health problems or to improve the quality of your life, you have to remember that these little things can make a big difference.

It's interesting because this week I'm totally committed to eating in, so now I can compare how I eat. Here's my diary:

Monday LAST week: Got a salad with mixed greens, buffalo, yam, and mushrooms at The Pump for about $9. It sounded delicious, but really it's just flavorless. By the afternoon I'm totally wilting and spacing out...I snack on some dried fruit I had next to my desk, but it just makes me more hungry. Ugh. I bet the lean buffalo was cooked in some crap canola oil. 

Monday THIS week: Presidents Day, so I didn't have to work. I eat some delicious delicious pork belly, using up my frozen supply. Guess I need to buy more.

Tuesday LAST week: Got Chipotle salad bowl for $8.50 with some pork. Asked for more pork...but sadly it seems like it's mostly lettuce and tomatoes. One hour later and I'm sooooooooooo hungry. What's for dinner?

Tuesday THIS week: Pumpkin soup made with coconut milk/chicken stock and buffalo with a seaweed and walnut salad. Pretty delicious and nutritious! I'm satisfied!

Wednesday LAST Week: Lunch buffet at Free Foods. This looks promising. I'm really excited to eat wild salmon, marinated portobello mushrooms, raw vegan pad thai, cashew creme, and roasted beets...but it ends up costing an arm and a leg. Frustratingly enough, I end up hungry again and ravenous by the time I get home for dinner. Like most "healthy" midtown restaurants, Free Foods skimps on the fat. I don't know how anyone survives on this kind of food. I contemplate going to a vending cart, but reconsider when I think too hard about what might be in the delicious creamy white sauce at the Halal cart...last time I ate there I ended up with a stomach ache. 

Wednesday THIS week: Simple sausage sauteed with butternut squash in some coconut oil, plus a small seaweed salad. Didn't seem like much food, but I'm full the rest of the day. 

Conclusion: Well, the week isn't over yet! But I've got some more killer lunches planned. In the past I learned that my lunches need lots of fat, pumpkin/yams/beets or other substantial vegetable for calories, and a salad. Last month I had trouble because I was just eating things like fish and mushrooms, which is not enough fat or calories. But once I got simple and satisfying lunches down, I saved money and felt better! Eating out isn't bad, but I think I'll reserve it for restaurants that don't skimp on the fat and use meat I feel good eating, like Momofuku or Lot 2. 

02/14/2010 - 19:05

 What do people eating an evolutionarily appropriate diet eat? Well. lots of things, as I try to demonstrate with my paleo foods section.Eating Paleo in NYC had a great party last night and it was wonderful to see the huge diversity of food on the menu and to meet everyone!

 

Berries, sprouts, nuts, raw beef, grassfed butter, chili, Indian lamb, duck, asparagus, garlic greens...

Everyone at the party was doing paleo for different reasons ranging from weight loss to celiac disease to interest in eating nourishing real foods. There were normal paleos, WAPFrs, raw foodists, and everyone in between. It was interesting to talk about dietary preferences, it really showed me how you can't put this movement in a box. 

Blood sausage, raw beef, wild boar leg, spinach, london broil, liver pate...pics from the farm tour!

The party was generously hosted by the Sanocki brothers and I hope everyone had a great time! Here is what else I've been eating:

Seaweed plate at Souen! This is the seaweed salad. I also ate a bunch of oysters and pumpkin. Souen is a great example of how flexible the paleo diet can be....you can even eat it at a macrobiotic primarily vegetarian restaurant! Seaweed is very nutritious and so are oysters. The only caveat here is that they use vegetable oils in their cooking like safflower oil. 

I often get brunch at Get Fresh Table and Market. This morning I had this lovely pastured pork belly and beet salad, plus a side of garlic greens and roasted potatoes. Last week I had grass fed steak and eggs! 

01/27/2010 - 12:21

This might come to shock you, but when I first started the paleo diet I almost never cooked. I had two technology jobs, a full courseload, and the only kitchen appliances I had in my closet-like apartment were a micro-fridge and a microwave.

But I still managed to get healthier simply by making better decisions while eating out. I think cooking is a great way to bring a paleo diet to the next level in terms of eliminating all vegetable oils/gluten/sugar and eating nutritious and inexpensive foods like home-made stock and bone marrow, but it's not required! Especially in NYC, many people have jobs that pay well, but leave them little time to cook. Eating out is a reality in NYC.

Fortunately, there are plenty of nutritious options. Since I've been saving money by packing a lunch, I can't say I know all of the, but here are a few good medium-priced (if you have a job that leaves you unable to cook, I at least hope you can afford to eat medium-priced) meals I've had:

  • Chipotle was a major staple for me when I did eat out in college. The meat is high-quality, though they never give you enough. Order a salad topped with meat and their delicious veggies.
  • FreefoodsNYC is a good choice too, especially given the raw options. I ate there recently and had wild salmon, roasted root vegetables, a flax pizza with vegetable pate, and a marinated mushroom topped with cashew cream.
  • The Pump Energy Food recently put out a funny commercial that starts out well enough with a skewering of cereal, but then goes downhill with a misguided criticism of fat. Their menu is a little lower in fat than I'd like and they do have some crap artificial sweeteners and soy protein. Salads can be topped with bison, braised beef, or several other lean meats, then some vegetables like balsamic-marinated mushrooms, and some spicy sauces. Unfortunately the only option they have for "good fat" toppings that is half way paleo is guacamole. When are people going to realize that lard is a good fat?

  • It sounds like newcomer 4Food will offer some low-carb options and have grass-fed beef.
  • Sushi places usually have sashimi as an option.
  • In Koreatown you can easily get such delicacies as short ribs and pork belly at numerous little delis, though the quality of the meat tends to be mixed.
  • Eat on the street! Food cart Schnitzel and Things offers bratwust and some delicious beet salad. I also enjoy the Taiwanese food at the cart NYC cravings, though I find they get disgruntled if you try to refuse rice. And of course, Hallo Berlin, which has even more delicious Bratwurst!

On the more expensive side, I think it's even easier. Fine restaurants usually accept food limitations with grace and NYC is currently awash in love for fatty meaty foods. Momofuku is a favorite of mine and the Eating Paleo in NYC group recently had a meetup there where we dined on fatty pork wrapped in lettuce leaves. I also hear The Breslin is amazing.


Breakfast at The Breslin

On some level it's also about learning to say no. When the breadbasket comes to the table, it seems ungracious to send it back, but sometimes health comes at a price.

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