media

01/12/2012 - 16:22

 A couple of days ago, a feminist site posted a quick little rant that used Erwan Le Corre as a segue to talk about how this whole "paleo" trend was promoting some hyper-patriarchal masculine past, comparing it to the modern Republican conservatism. It was pretty clear that the author didn't know much about the Paleolithic (her citation to how bad the Paleolithic was for women linked to the author of The Clan of the Cave Bear, which is fiction) and after significant negative feedback, the piece was pulled (but lives on thanks to the internet).

I commented that I really don't think that the Paleolithic diet/lifestyle thing is a man thing. But I think it seems that way to outsiders because that's how the media portrays it. It's the media that's selling the caveman hunter-barbarian stereotype, not the movement. 

I've experienced this first hand, but I really haven't said much about it because it brings up so many personal insecurities. After the NYtimes article I was featured in, the NY Paleo Meetup and I interacted with a large number of media outlets, both television and print. We even managed two glorious comped dinners at Takashi that were filmed for various TV programs in the US and Europe. Overall, I probably spent hours and hours talking to reporters and being filmed or photographed. But I honestly don't have much to show for it except the original article. I was cut out of almost all of the things I was involved with. 

I wasn't sure it was because I am a woman. I thought...well, you know, I'm not exactly some tall hot person. I'm a short awkward nerd. So I started inviting women I thought were gorgeous to come to these interviews. They got cut too. As for the men, well duh they featured some attractive men, but I have noticed that even men who were pretty unattractive were being featured in media. It was OK to be unattractive, as long as you had a certain feral look. I don't want to discredit all the men who were also cut. I would note that many of them, like us women, were not caveman stereotypes. 

I also don't want to criticize the various writers, videographers, and photographers, who often spent a large enough time with me that it's hard to think that they thought they were wasting it. I always got the feeling that things were getting cut by higher-ups. 

But I haven't said anything, because I didn't want to seem resentful. I've worked in male-dominated fields long enough to know that as soon as you complain, it can be seen as a weakness and used to tar and feather you as some kind of paranoid over-sensitive whiny woman.

I guess the good news is that woman in the Paleo community have gotten more and more visibility because so many of us have published books. Most of the good paleo cookbooks have female authors or co-authors. But I still think that when the media wants to do a "paleo diet" story that they are mostly going to pick someone to feature that fits that weird caveman stereotype. And that sucks, because I think this diet is really beneficial for everyone. I've seen it lead to easier pregnancies, help women with breastfeeding issues, get rid of menstrual cramps, and alleviate menopausal symptoms. And ironically, it may be that women benefit quite a bit more from meat consumption than men anyway, considering that anemia is more prevalent in women. 

01/11/2012 - 15:46

 Maybe because I just moved from NYC to Chicago, I was a little insulted by this little rant the New York Times published on the horrible life of a vegetarian in the Midwest. Of course, she lumps the entire Midwest into her rant, even though it seems the author has only lived in one Midwestern city, which is Kansas City. 

So, yes, I’ve “eaten” at some of these famous restaurants. There was the meal at the Golden Ox steakhouse (baked potato), Stroud’s fried chicken (rolls) and Arthur Bryant’s barbecue, where, searching for vegetarian options on the menu, skipping over the lard-bathed French fries, pausing to consider the coleslaw, I ordered the safest option (a mug of Budweiser).

I'm sorry, but that just made me laugh, because this whole lard revival thing is going on right now in New York City. Maybe lard never left the menu on Kansas City, but in NYC right now, a lot of fancy restaurants are BRAGGING about the animal fat they are using to make their fries. In fact, I created a Dinevore list of various restaurants that use duck fat for their fries in NYC. It has 12 restaurants and I'm sure I'm missing a few. In fact, one of the most famous restaurant empires in NYC, David Chang's various Momofuku ventures, are explicitly vegetarian-unfriendly. 

So I'm not sure what the point of harping on about lard was, except to write an article to make New Yorkers feel smug about themselves. I would say that New Yorkers can feel quite smug that they do have better vegetarian and vegan food though. I like to eat an occasional vegan meal myself, but so far the vegan food in Chicago seems to be stuck in an era of vegetable oil and wheat (would you like some breaded soy nuggets fried in vegetable oil??) that most vegan food in NYC has escaped.

But at least I'm not lobbying to have bread baskets burned. Back in the 1980s, vegan activist front Center for Science in the Public Interest lobbied for fast food restaurants to trade their animal fat for hydrogenated vegetable oil. Unfortunately for them, it became clear that synthetic trans-fats are probably the worst thing you could possibly eat.

But they are still in use in some fryers and the oils that have replaced trans-fats, industrial soy and canola oils, really aren't that much better for you. Nothing seems more backwards these days than trading lard for vegetable oils. Lots of New Yorkers know that. In fact, it's super easy to get very high quality lard in NYC, which I haven't found to be the case in Chicago. Oh the irony. However, Chicago has redeemed itself by having tallow fries at Longman & Eagle.*

 

* not that fried carbs should ever be a dietary staple, but it's nice to know when you are having an occasional treat that you are not downing a cup of vegetable oil crap for no reason

 

06/28/2011 - 16:27

 Sweden is a relatively small country and as such they don't have that many native TV shows. They seem to fill in with some assorted American and British shows. It was there where I was exposed to British-style reality TV and I lost my Anglophilia. Instead of high tea and Jane Austen, there was "five ton mum" and "real life 40 year old virgin!" I guess one of the more interesting shows is Tribal Wives.  The premise of the show is that a British person goes and lives with a tribe. Some anthropologists have called it exploitative, but it's reality TV, not an ethnography. Some episodes do actually seem like they are exploiting hapless tribes from all over the world, but I noticed a Kitava one on Youtube yesterday(multiple parts, click the links in the sidebar). Not much about food, but it's kind of interesting. You might note that there are plenty of plump women around the village. Perhaps the diet has changed in the decade plus since the Kitavan study.

She said she didn't miss creature comforts, including electricity, as her life simplified. “The whole island revolves around yams, the islanders' staple diet,” she said. “I ate them boiled, chipped and roasted. The tribespeople spend a lot of time working out new ways to celebrate the yam.”
 

*by yam, she means true yam(Dioscorea), which the subtitles mistranslate as sweet potato

On this one, the British woman gets upset because she isn't allowed to wear pants. On the one about the Afar (a pastoral culture) the British woman gets upset because of child marriage and female circumcision. Pastoral societies are generally much harder on women than horticultural ones. In another episode the British woman is upset about a forced marriage in the pastoral Himba tribe. 

Much like the excellent book Nisa, this show puts a human face on the lives of women that professional ethnographies can't really approach. I think that between the two sources, it's clear that women in these cultures tend to be more socially constrained and threatened than some primitivists would like to think. Domestic violence, abandonment, and social persecution are real dangers. Like Price's search for vegan tribes, the search for matriarchal tribes has been in vain. But people who study these cultures often say these women are happier than most women in our society. Whether that is true remains to be seen.

 

04/03/2011 - 17:45

 Does the Mediterranean Diet Even Exist? asks the NYtimes

The Mediterranean diet was always a composite. Spaniards love pork; Egyptians, as a rule, do not. In some regions, people made pesto with lard, not olive oil. “There is no such thing called the Mediterranean diet; there are Mediterranean diets,” says Rami Zurayk, an agriculture professor at the American University in Beirut. “They share some commonalities — there is a lot of fruits and vegetables, there is a lot of fresh produce in them, they are eaten in small dishes, there is less meat in them. These are common characteristics, but there are many different Mediterranean diets.”

The healthy versions of these diets do have one other thing in common: they are what the Italians called “cucina povera,” the “food of the poor.” In Ancel Keys’s day, Mediterraneans ate lentils instead of meat because they had no choice. “A lot of it is to do with poverty, not geography,” says Sami Zubaida, a leading scholar on food and culture.

Well, I agree that most low-meat diets around the world have more to do with poverty rather than health, that's not why some Greeks may have been eating lentils. The Greek Orthodox form of Christianity prescribes fasting for a little over half the year. Fasting involves eating not only less, but forgoing all animal products besides invertebrates like shellfish and insects (not many people take advantage of this). This letter to the editor from the journal of Public Health Nutrition asks why Ancel Keys didn't note that in his study.

When laymen break these fasts they don't eat lentils, that's for sure. It's a time to enjoy meat, dairy, and fish. 

There is a good free journal article available on the impact of religious fasting on health

02/07/2011 - 18:31

 Vegans: many of them are smug self-satisfied jerks who believe they know everything about economics, nutrition, and environmental science. Even though experts in those fields realize we are just at the tip of the iceburg in our human knowledge. Yes, vegans, particularly on the internet, know their diet is sooo healthy and no one could possibly not do well on it and it saves cute puppies and you are a murderer if you eat bacon blah blah blah.

So you can tell I have no love lost for these folks. And when I saw this article title I got excited Being vegan could put heart health at risk: study. Then I realized there is a group of people who are even more insufferable: science reporters. Really, almost all of them suck and are a testament to our over-saturated journalism schools. As my brilliant science journalism professor once said "If you want to be a good science reporter, get a SCIENCE degree." 

So this isn't even a study. It's a boring review paper with lots of chemistry that obviously gave the reporter a headache.

OMG IT'S SCIENCE AHHHHHHH

It's called Chemistry behind Vegetarianism
by Duo Li from Zhejiang University and it's in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. Oh yeah, it's not about vegans either. It's mostly about vegetarians, which isn't surprising since only mainly a of people are vegan in the world and there are probably less than 100 studies on these mostly-smug folks. 

And right at the beginning it says "Omnivores have a significantly higher cluster of cardiovascular risk factors compared with vegetarians." In the paper it postulates some reasons why a vegetarian might have a heart attack, mainly having to do with imbalance of omega-3 to omega-6 ratio and the ineffectiveness of vegan forms of omega-3 in foods (ALA is in vegan foods, but vegans can buy DHA supplements made from algae, who are not as cute as puppies). Only stupid vegans in fantasy raw vegan land think it's OK to be an unsupplemented vegan and this paper drives that point home. 

The homocysteine and platelet stuff may have to do with the omega imbalances in vegetarians. 

Collagen- and adenosine-50-diphosphate (ADP)-stimulated ex vivo whole blood platelet aggregation were significantly higher in both vegetarian and vegan groups than in both high- and moderate-meat-eater groups. The vegan group had a significantly higher mean platelet volume(MPV) than the high- andmoderatemeat-
eater and ovo-lacto vegetarian groups (35). Increased MPV in vegans suggests the presence of larger, activated platelets. Evidence from case control studies has indicated that an increased MPV is an independent risk factor for acute myocardial infarction (MI) (39) and for acute and/or nonacute cerebral ischemia (40).

That's an interesting study referenced and speaks to the fact that not all aspects of vegans have been studied. There are also no life-long multi-generational vegans. As science uncovers facts about how what your grandparents and parents ate affected you, this seems like a big blind spot. 

05/24/2010 - 19:38

While the MacLeans article on paleo was one of the better ones, I think the illustration they chose (above) is indicative of what's wrong with paleo media coverage. While there have been exceptions, nearly every reporter I've talked to about paleo has asked me ridiculously sexist questions pulled out of some sort of pulp caveman fantasy. "Do do the guys doing the paleo diet club women and bring them back to their caves?" was one of the worst.

It's fiction people.

It doesn't help that there are more than a few paleo dieters willing to go along with this and frame paleo as a way to pick up hot chickz and to reclaim a ridiculous idea of masculinity. Guess what? While evolutionary psychology has some lessons, it's been distorted to justify disgusting behaviors that have nothing to do with being human. Real hunter-gatherers are diverse: some have rigid gender hierarchies and others don't. But such men don't want to hear about the complexities of human cultures, they just want to cover up their own very-real inadequecies by spouting nonsense about how manliness is being oppressed by modern society.

Nevermind that it's women who are the ones consistently shamed away from eating meat, hunting, and fishing, among other things. The wimpiness of our culture cuts across the gender divide. Did you know the foragers have LOWER testosterone than studied hunter-gatherers? American men are crash and burn- high testosterone when young probably leds to stupidity and aggression, which quickly fizzles out into viagra-popping territory.

In the media's stupidthropology, men in the Stone age hunted while women pattered about with children on their backs gathering the makings of an organic argula-walnut salad. Guess what? Gathering is a dumb word that demeans the role of women, because in the anthropology world it includes fishing, trapping, and hunting game- often with complex traps and nets. But this is consistently ignored, even by female writers.

And guess what- the Stone Age wasn't an era of hot muscular men having sex with a zillion ladies while the wimps were beaten into the jungle. Humans are not bonobos. We are wired for "monogamy," though this biological term has little to do with the modern Christian fantasy of having one partner for the rest of your life. Rather, it seems humans bear biological marks of serial monogamy with some furtive extra-pair copulation....with as all things human, quite a bit of diversity in terms of sexual preferences.

04/02/2010 - 14:45

Reading the fat acceptance bloggers  on Jamie Oliver's new show, is a typical argument of theirs goes like "Food Revolution is awful because it is portraying fat people as unhealthy! Plenty of skinny people are unhealthy too, but they target the fat people for shaming!"

I totally agree with that actually. Focus on appearances distracts from real health problems. It's easy to pick on people who are overweight, but food related illness doesn't discriminate based on weight. As a skinny adolescent, I suffered from all kinds of terrible health problems related to my diet. Candy and soda didn't make me overweight, but it surely contributed to the stomach problems, headaches, and fatigue I suffered from. 

As a child growing up the South, many of my friend's fathers succumbed to heart attacks. They were slim men in their 40s. 

The old argument that being obese isn't genetic because where are all the the fat hunter-gatherers? While a few statues from the Stone Age seem to glorify curvy ladies, skeletal evidence has yet to be found. BUT there is strong evidence that gene expression can be determined by the maternal diet, gut bacteria, and environmental toxins. All three have been linked to obesity. There is no question that some people are going to have a much harder time with their weight than others. And once someone is obese for a long it's likely that the metabolism is altered enough that they are going to really have a tough time losing it and keeping it off. 

Because of an appearance-focused approach to health, plenty of skinny people I know think they are healthy despite eating terrible diets. Not to stereotype, but while Swedes I knew when I lived in Sweden ate relatively healthy, sugary alcoholic drinks and bags of gummy "godis" were a regular part of their diets. For awhile I was confused...how were people eating these awful candy gummy craps and sugar berry flavored vodka soda and looking so good? The answer is probably in the healthy full fat whole foods that are still part of the diet there (in America we both eat crap AND don't eat much nutritious food). But when I started meeting my friend's parents it became clear that there are still effects to these foods, they just show up later. Sweden isn't too far away from the United States in heart disease rates

For all the blather about Americans being fat, Eastern Europe leads for heart disease per capita. Type 2 diabetes is really hitting other countries hard too- India in particular, despite their "healthy vegetarian diet." So much for meatless Mondays having a huge health effect...but really, what India and Hungary have in common is love for fried processed carbs and massive amounts of sugary desserts without much actual nutrition in between. But maybe diet isn't really even that much of a factor: "In a study of Japanese migrants in the United States the cultural upbringing was the strongest predictor of coronary heart disease. Those who were brought up in a non-Japanese fashion but preferred the lean Japanese food had a heart attack almost twice as often as those who were brought up in the Japanese way but preferred fatty American food."

In the focus on food we often forget about other factors like lifestyle. 

I applaud Jamie's expose of the venality of our school lunch system, but I just don't think some homemade pasta is going to cut it. Also as a Southerner, I'm also a little annoyed that it's not a fellow Southerner leading this effort. One of the principles popular in the food justice movement is providing both healthy AND culturally appropriate food. It's too bad that the Southern culture has really been lost.

I often hear about how sending away the Native Americans to government schools caused them to lose their culture. But it wasn't just Native Americans who lost their culture because of government schools. Watch the food being served to those kids in Food Revolution. Some people think Southern food is fried pablum like that, but it's not. They aren't being served Southern food, they are being served industrial gruel. In fact, I'm sure real Southern food is illegal under the USDA guidelines. That's too bad, because my Southern ancestors were living into their late 80s even a hundred years ago on ham hocks, collard and mustard greens, turtle soup, crawfish, buttery grits, and full fat buttermilk. The awful Paula Deen flour and sugar creations are to Southern food what fry bread is to Indian food- neither authentic nor traditional. 

02/02/2010 - 12:27

Two exciting tips!

  • John Durant founder of the NYC Eating Paleo Meetup Group will be on the Colbert Report Wednesday!
  • A new event for those interested in raw dairy and traditional nutrition!: Sally Fallon Morell, president of the Weston A. Price Foundation, will speak about the safety, health, economic and legal issues surrounding milk.  Learn why full-fat raw milk from grass-fed cows on pasture is natures safest and healthiest food, and the key to revitalizing small family farms and reclaiming our constitutional rights.
01/14/2010 - 00:44

 An interesting exploration of the growing demand for meat in New York City

 New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni and Anthony Bourdain. As an on- and off-again meat eater, Foer has publically made his decision to step into non-meat land and now is synonymous with whining about Bourdain to New Yorkmagazine for the No Reservations host’s admittance on Larry King Live that he thinks humans are supposed to eat animals. We wonder how he’ll respond to the recent Times story about the new “Caveman lifestyle,” described as “a small New York subculture whose members seek good health through a selective return to the habits of their Paleolithic ancestors.” One die-hard member purportedly indulges in “grass-fed ground beef, which he eats raw.”

I hope Bourdain will recognize us as kin rather than as "dieters." I hate that word because it implies a limitation. The limitation for me is I simply try to avoid eating foods that make me feel crappy and I always make exceptions if I feel something is awesome and uniquely delicious. Which is actually OK, because most of the body-damaging crap people shovel in their mouths isn't. 

If anything, eating like this has awakened me to the wonders of delicious silky blood, insects, liver on a stick, and reindeer hearts.  Bourdain probably doesn't think of himself as a diet guru, but his writing and shows have inspired many reluctant people to order foods like tripe. 

My father is on the paleo diet (50 lbs lost and counting, though that's another story) and Les Halles, Bourdain's restaurant, is a favorite of ours. 

Also mentioned is the Meat Hook, which is a veritable temple of meat in Brooklyn, the epicenter of the nose to tail locavore meat movement. Meat is big enough in Brooklyn that cuts previously had for pennies, like marrow bones, are inching up in price by the day. 

Surprisingly, the people who are now going back to eating meat are more than willing to delve into the nasty bits of meat production. Sold out workshops involving the snapping the necks of rabbits and gutting them? Who would have thought. This is a good thing because people who are knowledgeable about the slaughter process are more demanding about how animals lived and how they died. I don't know how much of this has to do with the locavore movement and how much has to do with the fact that many vegetarian foods make people feel crappy. 

Fun at the slaughter house

And the Humane Society's argument that even animals at nice farms have miserable lives is unconvincing to the growing number of young urbanites who work a stint on a farm in the summer. 

I do feel bad for vegetarian restaurants though. There are plenty of people that aren't comfortable with meat, and I understand that. I always was the girl who had no problem with dissecting worms, so I know I'm a little bit of an outlier. Many of my friends and family members are vegetarian and vegan, so the reality is that a visit to some of these restaurants is in my future. There are some I look forward to going to, like Souen or Pure Food & Wine, but most of them are crappy food excused by sparing cute animals. It doesn't have to be this way. I love Pure Food & Wine's fruit and nut based dishes and Souen's emphasis on seaweed and pumpkin. At each place it's possible to get a meal free of bloaty soy, fried industro-oils,  and crampy wheat. Vegans and paleo dieters can dine together, restaurants just have to be more innovative and not just serve fried soy  and gluten blobs. 

01/09/2010 - 18:40

 

Wow, in really really exciting news, I and the others from the Eating Paleo in NYC group were featured in the New York Times in an article called The New Age Caveman and The City. I am very proud to have been involved in this article and the paleo community in the city. 

However, some readers are concerned that the article makes us seem odd and faddish. I don't necessarily think that's true. It's a short article and they had to pick what was interesting. It's too bad this quote made it into the article "Unfortunately, life was short: If you made it to age 30 or so, you had done well." that once again perpetuates the myth that paleolithic life was nasty, brutish, and short. If you've done any reading at all on the subject, you will find that is simply not true. 

Also, I was sad to see little discussion on meat itself, which is really what makes the diet unique. Both Vlad and I were photographed at farmer's markets buying from farmers that we know well who raise pastured animals rich in healthy fats, but the photos and the discussion of them did not make it into the article. I will certainly post plenty about that here to make up for it. I've done lots of posts about that too on my personal blog here.

But overall, I hope it will get more people thinking about the paleo diet or whatever you call it (I should post about this later). I remember I was pretty annoyed when I first heard about it, so even if people react negatively...at least they are thinking. The idea that bread might be bad never crossed my mind until I read Jared Diamond's essay. 

Here are some of the questions I get and their answers:

Did the Paleo diet work for your stomach problems?

Yes, if it didn't I'd probably still be searching for a suitable cure. You can read more here. 

How can you live without cake/beer/other assorted banned foods?

I indulge occasionally, but the stomach problems associated with most of these foods dissuade me more and more these days. Besides, there are plenty of treat options that do not seem to cause me problems. I do love beer's complex flavors in particular though and I find that if I consume only small amounts I don't seem to have problems. 

You obviously have a medical condition and should see a doctor.

That's not a question, but I do have an answer. I have seen plenty of doctors and yes, I have been tested for celiac disease. 

Why all this talk about sprinting when humans evolved to be persistence hunters and run long distances?

The running thing is pretty controversial. Some paleo dieters are fans of Born to Run and run pretty long distances barefoot. I'm more in the Art De Vany camp in that I believe endurance running is harmful. Humans certainly can run very well, but for most hunter-gatherers, persistence hunting seems rare. The idea that humans are born to run also rests somewhat on the idea that hunting big game was what allowed our brains to enlarge. I disagree with this, because our brains are hungry for nutrients that are fairly rare in land mammals and very common in aquatic species that require no particular tools to gather.  And I am personally dissuaded by older people I know who were runners and now have some pretty serious health problems, though I know it's only anecdotal and it's not liked I loved running and I'm sad to give it up.

 

Anyway

 

If you are in NYC, come meet and greet on Tuesday and think about coming to our Momofuku Feast on the 25th. 

 

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