industrial food

06/29/2011 - 17:18

 I finally finished The End of Overeating. It has some great sections, but overall I had trouble finishing it because of the dry writing style. A lot of the food in the book blamed for overeating is meat. But if you keep reading, it's not really meat so much as a flavorless factory-farmed protein matrix for sugar and soybean oil engineered to induce exccessive consumption. Now that I only eat homemade pastured meat (and occasionally meat at some very good restaurants that source responsibly), I never gorge on meat. But I confess that before I cleaned up my diet, I did have trouble restraining myself with things like General Tso's Chicken and fried Buffalo Wings. When I see a study that shows meat causes weight gain, I kind of want to know "what meat?". If you mean this kind of garbage, that's not meat or food at all, that's an industrial product: 

In China, dishes like orange-flavored chicken and sweet-and-sour chicken are widely available, but again, all the sugar is an American contribution. The dish we call "General Tso's Chicken" is loaded with sugar, much to the consternation of the Taiwanese chef who created it. "The dish can't be sweet," he insisted. "The taste of Hunan cuisine is not sweet."

The Orange Chicken is described on the menu as "tender, juicy chicken pieces lightly battered and fried, sauteed in a sweet and mildly spicy chili sauce with scallions." Preparation of the dish begins in the factory, where the meat is processed, battered, fried, and frozen. Like many processed meats, the dark chicken chunks contain as much as 19 percent of a water-based solution; oil and salt are added as well.
 

Boxes containing eight four-pound bags of ginger-citrus sauce, each with a refrigerated shelf life of about four months, are shipped to Chili's restaurants to accompany the chicken. The ingredients in the sauce sound relatively benign: sugar, hoisin sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, chili paste, modified food starch, and orange juice concentrate. But sugar is the dominant nutrient, and salt is listed three times.

About the Boneless Shanghai Wings, he said, "Taking it off the bone is like taking the husk off the nut." That processing step reduces the need for chewing, making the food faster to consume. Those wings contain a solution of up to 25 percent water, hydrolyzed soy protein, salt, and sodium phosphate. The water is in there for several reasons. First, it bulks up the chicken-the industry calls this "reducing shrinkage." Second, water is cheaper than chicken breast, so it's less costly to produce. And finally, water makes the food softer and chewing easier. Before the chicken is shipped from the manufacturing plant, it's battered, breaded, predusted, and frozen. This creates a salty coating that becomes crispy when fried in fat. "All this stuff absorbs fat, dries out this batter and breading, and replaces water with oil. So now you've got batter and breading that is probably 40 percent fat," according to the food consultant. The crispy coating, which also contains corn-syrup solids, dried yeast, and soybean oil, may represent up to half the volume of the nuggets on the plate.
 

 

05/28/2011 - 11:18

 When I was in college I was going to switch into food science. But then I took a bunch of food science classes and did some lab work. And I realized food science wasn't about food, it was about making combinations of absolute garbage taste addictively good. Most of the food science professors I had were former employees of Nabisco or Kraft. I couldn't believe how ignorant they were of nutrition and it showed. But the worst was the "taste lab" I participated in. What finally made me quit was when they were testing "breakfast" bars. They were beyond disgusting combinations of commercial breakfast cereals glued together with powdered milks and other crap. They were just plain nauseating. That was the end of my adventures in food science. 

There has been a lot of talk about food reward lately. Stephan Guyenet has an excellent series up. I have been a fan of the concept for a long time, since I learned about Seth Roberts from Freakonomics. The concept was instrumental when I was battling binge eating. I do think there is just more than the addictiveness of the food that matters, that micronutrients and fatty acid imbalances play a role, but industrial food is the common thread here. Here is food that is designed to trigger overeating and is also devoid of nutrition. Whenever I forget about what this is actually like I just visit a blog called The Impulsive Buy, where they post reviews of such products. It takes me back to my days of telling myself I'd just eat ONE king cone and then eating the whole box. Some people can control themselves a little easier, I do have an addictive personality in general and there are lots of addictive disorders in my family. However, this is behavior that I have excised from my life by no longer bringing any food designed by food scientists into my house and also by keeping myself satiated with real foods.

Here are some lovely examples of what not to eat:

Limited Edition Creamsicle Oreos

Don't those look gross? However, I know if I started eating them I would probably keep eating them.

Kettle Chips are the most evil though because they are not really as immediately gross-out as the Oreos. They actually seem kind of classy and healthy, until you eat the whole bag of PUFA-laced goodness. 

Another rather devious product is Ben & Jerrys, because it also seems kind of natural. But they do employ food scientists there whose sole job is to make you shovel the gobs of sugar flavored sugar into your mouth. I make ice cream at home sometimes and I never overeat it the way I used to overeat this, despite the fact it tastes much better, it just doesn't have the triggering textures, flavors, and aromas. 

AH yes, another product that sucks compared to homemade, but people overeat it anyway. 

Whenever the blogosphere is arguing about the health benefits or risks of bacon or potatoes, I just remember these are the kind of things most Americans, particularly children, are eating. And bizarrely, our society seems to think it's OK to serve this kind of food in schools...

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