hunting

09/13/2011 - 08:44

 I've written before about the animal rights-locavore cold war. In some people's eyes, they are two types of liberal food movements, but the truth is that the locavore movement has its true roots in conservatism, as exemplified by the agrarian pillars of the movement such as Wendell Berry and Joel Salatin. Animal rights is just plain radical modernism, a pathology of alienation from nature. Being so different in core philosophy, it makes sense that animal rights would want to make life difficult for agrarians, who use integrated systems of plants and domesticated animals on their farms. 

Joel Salatin has been speaking out about this:

Believe it or not, there's a food issue lurking out there beyond food rights and food safety. Joel Salatin, the Virginia farmer-author-activist is worried that that next issue is animal rights.

He's already seeing evidence of it at Polyface Farm, his own farm in the Shenandoah foothills. During a tour of his farm Saturday for 150 attendees as part of a fundraiser for the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund, Salatin said he's been reported to his local animal control officials by area residents who have had concerns about the treatment of his cattle.

In one case, someone reported him because one of his steers was limping. In another case, he was reported because his cattle were "mobbing"--hanging out close to each other as a herd in a new pasture.

In each instance, "We had to spend two days with local vets explaining what we do"...and he was off the hook.

His view of animal rights as an emerging issue for owners of sustainable farms rates a chapter in his upcoming book, Folks, This Ain't Normal: A Farmer's Advice for Happier Hens, Healthier People, and a Better World. It's due out in early October.

During the Saturday farm tour, Salatin wondered aloud what other problems the animal rights people might find at his farm. He pointed out how, during recent heavy rains, the chickens (who stay outside in mobile structures) got pretty wet, which isn't unusual. "We have days when our chickens are out here in the rain and cold and shivering. I know there are people who would like to go out and buy them L.L. Bean dog pillows."

Might the animal rights folks be better off focusing their attention more on CAFO's and other factory farm practices? They already have, of course, but Salatin speaks to a more ideological tendency.

The problem is a theme of his book: "We live in extremely abnormal times..." And one expression: "In our communities, we have more and more animal rightists."

 

Of course the animal rightists love regulation, the better to make it tough enough that the small farmers get out of business, just leaving the industrial CAFOs, which are easier to malign in the public's eye. Animal rights mouthpiece Jame McWililams consistently is on the side of big government. Sorry Philpott, they aren't on our side.

07/30/2011 - 17:57

 An uncontacted tribe was discovered living in Prospect Park in Brooklyn and promptly ticketed. Just kidding, sort of. They were rather "paleo":

Cops have busted a group of oddball poachers in Prospect Park — a band of vagrants that was trapping and eating ducks, squirrels and pigeons.

Parks officers wrote four tickets — two for killing wildlife and two for illegal fishing — totaling $2,100 in fines during a two-day period last week.

The city would not immediately release details of the incidents, which occurred on July 17 and 18 — just days after park-goers told rangers about a “Beverly Hillbillies”-like scene on the southeast side of the lake, near the ice skating rink.

“This is a dodgy group,” said park-goer Peter Colon, who spotted one of the men catching a pigeon while his friend started a fire. “They are the most threatening people in the park.”

The disheveled — and possibly homeless — tribe in question uses “makeshift” fishing poles and traps to catch the critters, then grills them over the fire, according to park watchdogs.

“One woman uses a net to bag the ducks,” said wildlife advocate Johanna Clearfield.

How dare those vagrants eat animals! A host of sanctimonious commenters says they should go down to the food bank and get themselves some normal stuff, like Chef Boyardee (that was the kind of stuff they had at the food bank I briefly volunteered at before it made me too depressed to be motivated). Or wait in line for hours at the food stamp office only to be turned down because they don't have their original birth certificates, or a real address, or some other nonsense. Or as one commenter said, they should just be vegans like her friend. 

Personally I wouldn't eat the animals there because of the fact that the city is poisoned by pollution, but honestly they are probably healthier to eat than whatever is served up at the local soup kitchen. 

Let's all be reminded that the government regularly kills the geese in the park and ships them to ANOTHER STATE to feed the homeless. Remember, it's only OK if the government does it. 

Whatever happened to "teach a man to fish?" Maybe they should go back to stealing like in the old New York City? So far a rise in crime hasn't accompanied the economic difficulties of The Great Stagnation, but it could happen. 

I have to give credit to the sane comments too. A lot people reminiscing about how their grandparents caught vermin to service the Depression. 

05/16/2011 - 22:39

Physical Anthropologist John D. Speth wrote a fantastic book called  The Paleoanthropology and Archaeology of Big-Game Hunting: Protein, Fat, or Politics? It's kind of a crime that it's not more widely available. It sells for $134 on Amazon, which is totally lame. If you are a student though you can probably get it for free. For my institution Springerlink had a free ebook download! I don't have time to do it justice right now, but there is a great chapter I just wanted to mention. It's about the high-fat African game animals, which are disproportionately represented in many sites tied to paleolithic hunting. 

This is an opportune moment to take another brief detour into the realm of archaeology, this time to look at views about the hunting capabilities of hominins who occupied sub-Saharan Africa between about 300,000 years ago and roughly 40,000 years ago, give or take a few millennia. For those not too familiar with
archaeology, in Africa this period of the Paleolithic is known as the Middle Stone Age (MSA). During more or less the same period of time, Europe and western Asia were inhabited by Neanderthals, and in these more northerly latitudes of the Old World the comparable part of the archaeological record is referred to as the Middle Paleolithic (MP). Richard Klein has written extensively about the hunting strategies of MSA peoples, focusing particularly on the faunal record from two well-preserved and widely known cave sites located east of Cape Town along South Africa’s Indian Ocean coast – Klasies River Mouth and Die Kelders.


Klein has argued for many years that MSA hominins lacked not only the technological know-how of the people who followed them during the ensuing Later Stone Age (LSA), but they also lacked the cognitive wherewithal. Interestingly, eland remains in these caves are central to his line of thinking, and hence the reason for this detour. And, as I have been doing throughout the book, I will let Klein speak for himself.

 In contrast to the other ungulates, the eland in MSA sites include a large proportion of primeage adults, and the age profile has a catastrophic shape…. The most likely explanation is that MSA people had learned that, unlike most other large African bovids, eland can be easily driven, without much personal risk. An eland herd caught in the right position could be forced over a cliff or into a trap…. However, MSA people could not have driven eland herds to their death very often or the species would have become extinct, since its reproductive vitality would have been sapped by the continuing loss of a large proportion of the available prime adults. Not only did the eland survive, but there is no evidence that it became less numerous during the long MSA time span… 

Thus, MSA people were probably not very successful at hunting eland, and this makes it especially interesting that eland is the most abundant ungulate in the MSA faunas. The clear implication is that MSA people must have been even less successful at hunting other species that are less common in the sites but were more common in the environment. In short, MSA impact on the large mammal fauna was negligible. By extension, it may be argued that LSA peoples, in whose sites eland and other species are represented more in proportion to their live abundance, probably took a higher proportion of game overall. In short, LSA people were almost certainly more proficient hunters. Klein (1987:36–37)

I think this argument needs to be turned on its head. Judging by the many quotes from historic accounts that I have already presented, all of which extol the virtues of the eland as the “game-of-game” in a land of fat-poor animals, the eland is precisely the animal that one should target if the animal is available and the hunters possess the means. If anything the abundance of prime-adult elands in MSA sites is testimony to just how good, and successful, they were as hunters, not evidence of their impoverished cognitive capacity. It is the LSA hunters that should be the focus of interest here. Why were they (as it would seem) compelled to concentrate more on the far leaner and smaller game, the prey that explorer after explorer considered inferior food, especially when they were short of adequate sources of carbohydrates or alternative means of acquiring fat? It seems far more likely that the hunters of the LSA were under some level of stress, either because they managed to overhunt the elands, or perhaps because environmental changes reduced the numbers of elands. All of this remains speculative, of course, but I think the one conclusion we can safely draw from this is that the presence or absence of eland in archaeological sites tells us nothing about innate cognitive capacities.

Incidentally, the abundance of prime adults, evidence that led Klein to postulate that MSA hunters may have driven groups of eland over cliffs or into traps (the “catastrophic” age profile that Klein refers too – that is, an age structure that resembles what one would observe in a living population) need not imply mass kills. Since the faunal assemblages are aggregates or palimpsests of countless individual hunting episodes, the abundance of adult animals in their prime is what one might expect if hunters often deliberately sought out animals that were at their peak in condition, but also now and then killed whatever eland came within their sights, regardless of age. It would be interesting to know what proportion of the adult eland at Klasies and Die Kelders were males….

Hmm, possible dissertation topic? What's so important about eland? Why would hunters target them?

An 18th century Swedish naturalist quoted in the book gives some clues:

This animal [“Cape-elk” or eland] has a great deal of fat, especially about the heart: from an old male which we gave chase to and shot, we got such a quantity of fine and tender fat, as we could with difficulty get into a box that would hold about ten pounds of butter. As at the commencement of our journey homewards through the desert, the hounds we had with us had unluckily devoured our stock of butter, a farmer, who still accompanied us, showed us how to prepare the fat from about the heart of the elk, and to use it for dressing victuals with and for eating on bread in the same manner as is generally practised with goose-grease and hogs-lard. The taste of it also was very similar to these, and to the full as good; and, indeed, if I may be supposed to have been able to form any judgment of the matter at a time when we were so sharp set, and in absolute want of any thing else of the kind, it was rather better. The breast is likewise extremely fat, and is always looked upon as a great delicacy. The flesh is universally of a finer grain, more juicy and better tasted than that of the hart-beest. Sparrman (1785:207–208)

Speth has great information on early food containers where hunter-gatherers may have stored things like fat or boiled bone grease. Pottery may date back as far as 200,000 years, but it's also possible to store and cook with liquids in skins and other containers that would not be present in the record. He also takes down the common use of the San (bushman) as Paleolithic proxies. 

I'll post more about this book soon. I've been very busy with school, but luckily this is what I study so I have ample fodder for posts now. I feel very bad for people who don't have access to this things.

except, really, I think they are idiots

It's possible they will take old books that are outdated and try to push their own rather narrow conclusions. Altough you don't need to have research journal access to find that Boyd Eaton thinks his own conclusions were wrong (though Konnor is still holding out):

Meanwhile, paleo eating continues to evolve. In 1985, Eaton and Konnor allowed foods like skim milk and whole-wheat bread. Konnor still thinks that was the right call, and believes his original concerns about fat were prudent. “You can’t just go to the supermarket and buy meat loaded with fat and say you’re doing the Paleolithic diet. You’re not.” Animals of 10,000 ago, Konnor says, were less fatty—so we must compensate by eating leaner meats, and less. Eaton has gone the other way. He says he had failed to consider the contribution of non-muscle meat like brain and fat depots, and thus underestimated the amount of fat we need. “It makes me feel stupid!”

In full discloser, I don't think there is enough evidence either way to draw a conclusion about fat in the paleolithic and we are dependent on modern nutritional science to elucidate whether or not fat is healthy (or types of fat). I also am a big fan of the idea that evolution of human being is on-going and didn't freeze in lower-paleolithic Africa. I personally cycle low and high-fat, but do best on high-fat (I lose my period on low-fat, for example). 

03/24/2011 - 18:22

 I find it quite amusing when people accuse me of having one hunter-gatherer stereotype when it's also clear they hold one themselves. The most popular thing to accuse people of is that they hold the "man the hunter" hypothesis that people ate mostly meat and men provided most of the food. The challenging hypothesis is that humans mostly ate plants and women provided most of the food. The data does not support this very politically correct hypothesis because it plays to popular modern ideas, namely that plants are really good for you and women do all the work and don't get any credit for it. The Ethnographic Atlas is an extensive collection of data on hunter-gatherers and other cultures. In the excellent oldie but goodie Myths About Hunter-Gatherers, the author looks at the data and sees that:

It's perfectly logical omitting equistrians like the Plains indians because any culture using domesticated animals is pastoral, not hunter-gatherer. She notes that some of the "gathering was more important" stuff came from anthropologists who classified fishing as "gathering." 

But old myths die hard and I still both of these incorrect ideas bandied around: "man the hunter" and "man the gatherer." The reality is more varied and doesn't really fit either. What about "man the fisher?" Or man the scavenger (luckily the topic of a paper I am writing for my latest anth class)? It's more like "man the opportunist." But either way...it seems to be men bringing home the bacon. Cordain has also done a more famous paper on the topic of hunting vs. gathering, but clearly not famous enough since I still see these myths around and have commenters repeat these myths over and over (and accusing me of not knowing anything about anthropology...).

Either way, how much these folks represent the paleolithic is debatable. 

12/08/2010 - 17:36

A well-meaning, but mistaken, commenter pointed me towards this paper: Hadza Scavenging: Implications for Plio/Pleistocene Hominid Subsistence. Notice it says "Implications for" not "An example of." The Hazda are not living fossils, though many anthropologists think their lifestyle might have some similarities with paleolithic humans.

But the paper is priceless for the actual descriptions of how Hazda people obtained meat. Often it was

1. Some people hear something or see vultures in the distance

2. They investigate

3. Turns out to be some predator consuming meat

4. They scare away the predator and hope something good is left

5. Often all the "premium cuts" are gone, but they crack open the brain and other bones and eat the fat from theses

In this way it challenges two silly assumptions

1. Foragers eat lots of lean meat... sorry! the lions took that before you got there! Looks like only marrow is left. 

2. Male foragers obtain giraffe meat by valiantly hunting it down...sorry! Looks like a group of women and some kids scavenged that meat from a lion kill.

Note that Hazda have some modern technology, so paleolithic foragers would have been even more dependent on scavenging.

Hmm, I think I have some marrow bones in the fridge calling my name....

Comment?: 11
11/18/2010 - 17:51

I was curious recently about use of bones as food in the paleolithic. One interesting paper I found was Gazelle bone fat processing in the Levantine Epipalaeolithic. Epipalaeolithic is a term for an era confined to a particular geographical space of the Levant in the Eastern Mediterrean about the same time as the mesolithic era in Western Europe (21-11.5 thousand years ago). Hunter-gatherers in this era had more advanced tools than in previous eras. One thing they apparently used these tools for was to extract greater nutrition from animal bones. The major important products from bones were marrow and grease. Humans might not have the jaws of hyenas, who also consume bones, but we have the smarts to devise tools to get these nutritionally valuable products. The amount of time spent processing bones speaks to their nutritonal importance and also leaves good evidence.

While bone marrow is hard to extract, it was worth it for these hunter-gatherers considering how nutritious it was. There is evidence for marrow processing as early as 5 million years ago. Grease is also present in bones within the spongy microstructure, but it requires more technology to extract than marrow. The epipalaeolithic represented a bridge between foraging and sedentism, so at this point food was being stored. Grease could be stored in solid cakes, skin bags, or mixed with meat as pemmican. Extracting grease required pounding or breaking the bones and boiling them. The grease can then be skimmed from the surface. Back then most containers used were made of organic matter, which means there isn't a lot of good evidence for their exact nature. I remember some time ago seeing an argument on a paleo message board about containers, but this paper references evidence of organic containers that were probably heated with hot rocks from a fire, a method still used in some saunas I have attended.

How much and what kind of grease and marrow varied by animal species, age, season, weight, and physical condition. The species found in the Levant sites studied included fallow deer, tortoises, hare, and partridge.

This paper interested me because I've been thinking a lot about cooking methods and adopting those that are gentler than frying. The evidence is quite clear that boiling has been in use for a long time and also represents an excellent way to extract further nutrition from animals. The point that bones need to be broken to get the most of them is something to remember. Ask your butcher to cut your bones open so you can enjoy the marrow and make more nutritious and delicious stock. A cookbook that has some great info about what cuts to ask for is Bones by Jennifer McLagen.

10/31/2010 - 22:46

Yesterday I went to another event with Jackson Landers, who taught my hunting class and writes an excellent blog. This time the event was about cooking Canada geese, which have been a subject of much controversy since the USDA randomly decided that the fat and immobile geese in Prospect Park in Brooklyn were taking down more planes than Al Qaeda and unceremioniously kidnapped, gassed, and buried them. It kind of doesn't make sense, but it's also a waste of good meat.

Jackson talked about methods for hunting that city-folks could employ, such as jump-shooting, which don't require a purebred hunting dog or a zillion decoys. Those of us who have tried to hunt complained bitterly about the city's onerous gun laws.

In between there was delicious goose prepared by Leighton here. A paillard of breast cooked with chipotle and cranberries was my favorite. Jackson generously gave me some of the goose remnants: a back and a leg, which I proceeded to cook wrong. And by wrong I mean totally overcooked. I should have googled a recipe or looked a Hank Shaw's excellent site, because it was not a forgiving as duck. If I could go back in time I would have done a confit or a low and slow braise in wine.

Now I understand the folk song Grey Goose, which is about hunting a grey goose that ends up too tough for anyone or anything to eat. They should have asked Jackson or Leighton and not assumed they could just fry the goose in a pan.

Jackson also set up a pigeon trap on John Durant's roof, a rather sketchy enterprise that ended up with no bird. I don't think we were that sad about it, though Jackson said dove tastes amazing and a pigeon is like a dove. Besides, my major worries were about the pigeon's feed, which doesn't make sense because I eat fish that have been marinating in some pretty frightening waters. And let's not even talk about the stuff we feed factory farmed animals...pigeons eat garbage, but so do pigs!

Comment?: 10
10/23/2010 - 16:53

So I have some awesome things to look forward to!

Next weekend Locavore Hunter Jackson Landers, who taught my hunting class, will be in NYC for a goose-cooking event in my Brooklyn neighborhood! The NYtimes just covered the event, so it might sell out soon!

Then in November there is Pigstock! I've blogged about mangalitsa before and I'm excited to participate in this event where slaughter, butchery, and cooking will be taught! Guess who will be there? Dr. Eades and Sally Fallon! If you are a butcher, farmer, or just want to be an educated consumer, I suggest checking these workshops out!

Also I've blogged a bit about problems with the meat infrastructure in this country. Lack of slaughterhouses, transportation options, and onerous laws mean that good grassfed/pastured meat is more expensive than it really has to be. While I'm excited about infrastructural projects like mobile slaughterhouses, I think this is a problem that needs many solutions. Eating Paleo in NYC has been doing "meat shares" for awhile. We contract directly with farmers to purchase entire animals and distribute them amongst our members. We've sold out every time, but I've found that "cowpool" model doesn't work so well with very large groups. Trying to share an animal equally doesn't work very well because different parts are worth different amounts of money. Our next meat share is mostly composed of paleos, but also of garden variety locavores, so it has its own meatup here

A major challenge is that the average consumer is used to going to a store and picking out what they want among a selection of cuts. When you invest in a real live animal you are not sure how much the animal will weigh at the slaughter date or in many cases how much of each cut you'll get. In this meatshare we are investing in the purchase of some animals and people will get to purchase cuts. It's a little like gambling, except you won't lose money. The worst thing that happens is that you might not get the cuts you want and then I'll have to try to sell them to someone else, which shouldn't be a problem since I now have a huge chest freezer (TOTALLY WORTH IT) and I might just end up eating it myself...

Once I get a website for the concept up, I hope to add the ability to chose some cuts. I'm also in talks with some awesome local butchers to bypass the slaughterhouse completely and do on-farm slaughter/educational events. Some guy I met at a tech meetup said that this really has limited appeal, but whatev, since slaughter events regularly SELL OUT in NYC. People want the connection and I think it's important to see how hard and messy getting the meat to your table actually is. I've also learned a lot about cooking and buying from attending such events, though I'm still a bit of a meat n00b.

09/01/2010 - 09:45

Recently Overcoming Bias had a post about how men are evolved to hunt, women to gather. It then went on to speculate about how most sports are based on hunting instincts:

"Now sports let us show off many kinds of physically-expressed abilities. But it seems to me that most sports emphasize hunting skills, such as chasing, evading, throwing, and hitting, far more than gathering skills, such as visual search and fine finger control. Now it makes sense for men to prefer hunting sports, but oddly females also seem to prefer them; pretty much all sports emphasize hunting more than gathering skills. Why don’t women prefer sports designed to show off the skills for which female bodies were designed?

Sorry, but there is a "sport" that uses exactly these "gather" skills--it's called hunting! Perhaps our ancestors did persistence hunt and our most popular sports are based on those skills, but the persistence hunt only works in certain environments.

Modern hunting really isn't much like persistence hunting, even when practiced in open plain environments that would be suited to persistence hunting using ancient methods. There isn't much chasing, that's for sure, in waiting all day in a tree blind for a deer to walk by. Visual search and fine finger control are extremely important in modern hunting.

Besides that, I think anthropological studies have been heavily clouded by modern ideas of "the hunt" that are only relevant to academics who have probably never hunted themselves. They seem to think that all hunting involves chasing animals around. For example, in some ethnographies, net hunting, trapping, and spear fishing are counted as "gathering." This has led to two erroneous ideas now embedded in pop culture: that women squatted around gathering leaves all day, and that such leaves made up most of the diet.

The real truth about the study posted on Overcoming Bias that showed that women in rural Mexico are better foragers for mushrooms is that mushrooms aren't exactly the most important food in the world. They are of very little food value, but have high culinary value, and the more hours you put into learning to forage for them, the better yields you get. I have zero experience with this myself, and in Sweden I got zero mushrooms, while my male Swedish roommate got several bucketloads.

But this is not all to throw away the idea of gender roles in evolution. A recent NYTimes article about the challenge of building a decent sports bra reminded me of the biggest foil to the "born to run" idea of human locamotion. Maybe men are born to run, but women happen to have breasts: jiggly protusions that are often quite large. When running they can be rather painful. Modern women get around this obstacle by using sports bras, but when was the last time you saw a hunter-gatherer with a bra? This explains quite well to me why women who hunt in those tribes utilize traps, nets, and bows. But maybe women get used to the "bounce" after awhile?

Elite female runners often experience amenorrhea which can lead to infertility and low bone density (and it's not associated with low body fat, it's associated with running). Do male elite runners experience such reductions in reproductive "fitness?" 

But it is an interesting question: what do you think? Were all humans born to run? Or just men?

Comment?: 12
08/29/2010 - 22:13

Domenichino

Passed my bowhunter's safety course today, which is required in NYState. I mainly got the certificate just in case, but talking with the instructors and learning more about bowhunting has really gotten me excited to try it someday. I say someday because I have lots of work ahead of me in terms of improving my archery skills and buying equipment. I was also excited to meet other city residents in the class and I have decided to perhaps start a larger hunting club outside of NYC Paleo (but of course including us as well). Cavemen, preppies, artists, hipsters, and foodies all united? Sounds awesome to me. NYC is big enough to have extremely strange sub-sub-sub cultures.

There are some other awesome things going on in NYC: Our first beginning paleo workshop! Robb Wolf's seminar in Brooklyn! Robb Wolf's book release party! And Loren Cordain in Queens.

Changes are afoot for this blog too. I'll be upgrading design/software this week. I'll also hopefully post some toaster oven recipes perfect for the unpleasantly hot late summer weather.

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