This blog is about the intersection between evolutionary biology and food. But also about practical applications, sustainable agriculture, and general tasty things. I originally started eating this way to heal from chronic health problems and...it worked!
Love
I just moved to Chicago recently and have been settling into my new job and new apartment (in Lincoln Park), so that's the cause of most of the silence recently. In the meantime, I've been enjoying some music. I'm a huge fan of a type of music called joiking, which is a traditional Sami style of singing that is mainly wordless chants. I mentioned Torgeir Vassvik in another post, who has a traditional album and a jazz-fusion (very popular in that region) album. Here are two joik bands I've been listening to. One is Adjagas, which has kind of a rootsy folk sound:
Another is Wimme, who uses an electronica background:
From another part of the Arctic, comes this deer song involving throat singing from the Even tribe of Siberia. Someone in a comment mentioned that the only polar people whose diets we can study are the Inuit, which is not true. There are many circumpolar indigenous peoples. In Siberia (a massive part of the world) there are several tribes that have been poorly studied in the past, but there is some interesting research coming out of there right now. I keep meaning to read The Reindeer People, which is about the Even.
In Siberia, shamans combine a distinctive imagery of reindeer and of bird-flight. Their costumes sometimes include imitation reindeer antlers, occasionally tipped with wings or feathers, placed on the headdress or attached to the shoulders at the very point where reindeer are tattooed on the Pazyryk mummies. Like the participants in the Eveny midsummer ritual, shamans may ride to the sky on a bird or a reindeer. But their relationship with these animals goes far beyond mere riding. One shaman is suckled by a white reindeer during his initiatory vision as he incubates in a bird's nest on a branch high in the tree that links earth and sky. Another becomes a reindeer himself by wearing its hide, while hunters with miniature bows and arrows surround him and mime the act of killing. The hide is then stretched across the broad, flat drum that the shaman will beat as accompaniment to his trance. Another shaman, seeking to consecrate his reindeer-skin drum, is guided by spirits as he combs through the forest to find the location where the reindeer was born and traces every place it has ever visited over the course of its life, right up to the point where it was killed. As he picks his way through bogs and over fallen branches, he picks up the scattered material traces of its existence — snapped twigs, dried dung — to gather together every possible part of its being, and then moulds them into a small effigy of the reindeer. When he sprinkles the effigy with a magical ‘water of life’, the drum comes to life. Like a reindeer itself but with enhanced power, it is now capable of bearing the shaman aloft with its throbbing beat to nine, twelve, or more levels of the heavens.
I also enjoyed this throat singing from Eivor, an artist from the Faroe Islands:
If throat-singing and joiking just aren't your thing, here is a baffling and gorgeous music video I've been enjoying from a indie folk band called Phosphorescent:
Some people have told me I should read the latest diet book craze, particularly since I am skeptical, but having read dozens of diet books for the purpose of reviewing them, I rarely derive any pleasure from them. It's also rare that I actually learn anything new from them and in fact they often infuriate me with their emphasis on weight loss and tendency to play fast and loose with science. I think that all you need to know about eating healthy can be found on the internet and reading should be something more intellectually illuminating.
One book I've been absolutely enamored with is 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus. I knew about some of the ideas in this book already from courses I had taken in archeology and environmental science, but Charles C. Mann does a fantastic job using them to tantalize and shift pre-conceived notions about what the Americans were like in the past. It also touches on two of my favorite subjects: agricultural regression and agroforestry. Much like The Art of Not Being Governed, it challenges linear models of development, as well as Romantic ideals of the "noble savage" and "wilderness." I hope to do a full review of this.
I've also been re-reading Heart and Blood, one of my favorites, because I'd like to give it a full review as a more scientific and humanistic alternative to The Vegetarian Myth. I also have some pipe dreams about joining the hunting season, but they are pipe dreams since I haven't had much time for target practice and by the time I'm in the Midwest it will be rather late in the season. I've picked up a copy of my old hunting teacher Jackson Lander's Deer Hunting For Food.
I've also been reading The Lights in The Tunnel, which imagines a future in which most jobs are automated. It's available for free as a PDF. And The Last Child in the Woods, which is about the human need for nature and why our children's growing alienation from it is a huge problem. And The Tribal Imagination by Robin Fox. I'm probably also reading five million other books, but such is the burden of ADD. I just finished the complete stories of HP Lovecraft and most of Flannery O' Connor's short stories, which makes me sad, but I will find new short story collections to read.

I honestly don't like any of the gluten-free beers that I've tried, they taste kind of boring to me and still make me feel somewhat sick. I'm not a big wine person because it gets me drunk almost immediately. Cider is usually too sweet. But recently my roommates told me about Crispin cider with made with stout yeast and molasses. It has the dark rich character I loved in beer and I feel fine after drinking it. Definitely recommended.
What's your fav paleo party indulgence?
When watching the show about the men of Vanuatu, I became curious about the state of women on Tanna. In the show, there are no interviews of any Tannan women. In fact, the women aren't mentioned much at all, except when the Tannans are commenting on the housework practices of the Western families. The Tannan men say that in their culture, such housework (cooking, cleaning) is something only women do.
So I started reading more about the women of Vanuatu. The situation is complex because, as usual, most of the earliest accounts are written by Westerners, but luckily we have the accounts of both missionaries AND anti-missionary tradespeople. They are remarkably consistent in some ways, so it seems that the people once practiced widow strangulation after the husband's death, something similar to the Indian Sati widow immolation. Colonialist efforts to stop the practice were mostly successful, though it persisted in some areas for a long time. There are also accounts of women being beaten by their husbands.
Vanuatu now seems to be in a situation where some of the tribes were Christianized by missionaries and others are part of a traditionialist reactionary movement called "Kastom." Based on the practices portrayed on the show and their religion, it seems that these men are part of "Kastom" tribes. There is good evidence that Kastom has had some harmful effects on women as people have become more strict about taboos. A huge burden of the taboo system lies on women since many taboos are about childbirth and menstruation. If a woman does something improperly, like gardening during menstruation (they are supposed to seclude themselves in menstrual huts), she may be blamed for misfortunes that befall the village, particularly if she does not sacrifice pigs to repair the violation.
Vanuatu is not completely isolated and their are women's movements in islands across the Pacific (which I'm aware is a very diverse place). This interesting article gives a voice to some of their concerns.
I am not a bra-burning person; I never wore a bra, so, I do not know why bra-burning is so important to the feminist. —Participant in “Women, Development and Empowerment” workshop, Naboutini, Fiji, 1987
It's clear that many women in these places feel that Western feminism is concerned with very trivial things. I would confess that I agree, having most recently been in an argument with a feminist tech writer over whether or not the face that we give little girls "gendered" toys leads them to not chose careers in tech and science (I don't agree.)
Many women's writers in the Pacific, such as Tongan writer Konai Helu Thaman, in fact reject the feminist label. This phenomenon is not just Pacific, a growing number of young women in the West, even those that hold classical feminist ideas, also reject this label.
Interviewing 82 people in Guam in order to gauge their thoughts on feminism, Laura made the same mistake that I had made in my interview with Thaman.14 We had both used the term feminism without first defining it. Laura recalls asking “Are you a feminist?” “What do you think of feminism?” “Without exception,” she states, “they said: Please don’t call me a feminist”
Like many Western women who are further quizzed on their rejection of feminism, Thaman later qualifies her statement “when people ask, are you a feminist, if feminism is about equality, equal worth, then, yes, I am a feminist”
I think it's quite interesting that Western social conservatives often lament the decline of the nuclear family, often pointing out that children that grow up without a father are worse off. Many Western feminists spend a large amount of time critiquing the nuclear family as being oppressive to women. But the nuclear family is a modern invention. As Folese, a Samoan writer, says:
The origins of western feminism arose out of suburbia [sic] depression and the need women felt to “get out of the house,” leave the kids behind, burn bras, overcome depression and addiction to things like valium etceteras. In life in a Samoan village, the extended family acts as a support system for mothers. The trap of the nuclear family simply doesn’t exist in the village situation.12
To me, the Western nuclear family has many parallels to Western agro-monocultures, in that it represents a less robust and rich caricature of the natural human family structure. Furthermore, the Western nuclear structure often is packaged with a belief that it is bad for women to work outside the home. Pacific women have always worked, tending their crops and animals.
In the Pacific, feminism is perceived as being hostile to the communal and family values. As a women in the Guam workshop put it:
… “feminists” do not want babies and yet women’s lives are defined in terms of their children. Some respondents did not want to have anything to do with women who wanted to live only with other women, or who rejected the family. In their view, the base of women’s lives was the family. (Griffen with Yee, 1989, p. 8)
Furthermore, traditions that the women do not view as oppressive, which involve separate complementary spheres for men and women, are often labeled as oppressive by Western feminists. As Tupu, a Western Samoan women says: “We don’t seek a social structure of total “equality”—we don’t want to do the same things as men. We have a social structure that has reciprocal power relations in different forms."
The women often do not want to do away with traditions like menstrual seclusion (something not alien to the West certainly. Less than a mile away from me in Williamsburg there are Hasidic Jewish women who do the same thing). Among Maori feminists, there is currently an argument about whether or not the traditional Maori culture was oppressive to women. Some Maori women believe that women were powerful in their own way in the traditional culture and their goal is to reclaim this from Westernization. It seems that in some ways traditional cultures were better, such as in Tonga where women had access to land which was prohibited by colonial governments. In other ways they seem worse, such as the widow strangulation in Vanuatu.
Having grown up in the South with some of my family being very traditionalist, the skepticism of the Pacific women towards feminism is very familiar to me. However, I find that such skeptical traditionalist women in America are often belittled, whereas feminists are willing to listen to non-Western women, though their voices are often conspiciously absent, perhaps because they do not toe the party line.
Chole Island (Creative Commons)
Yesterday I read an interesting paper in Human Brain Evolution: The Influence of Freshwater and Marine Food Resources. I have some issues with this book, which is a collection of papers, but there is some great information. One of the interesting chapters is Lessons from Shore-Based Hunter-Gatherer Diets in East Africa. Some of it is available as this paper Milk in the island of Chole [Tanzania] is high in lauric, myristic, arachidonic and docosahexaenoic acids, and low in linoleic acid reconstructed diet of infants born to our ancestors living in tropical coastal regions.
Chole is an island in Tanzania, home to a population that is a mixture of various peoples from the African inlands, the legacy of the Arab slave trade. The paper describes their diet as being coconut, marine fish (which they boil), vegetables, fruits (oranges, mango, and banana), and an occasional flying fox. I do not believe this description is completely accurate. The researchers were looking for a culture that eats close to the "paleolithic diet" as described by Cordain: lean meat, fruits, and vegetables. Unfortunately, this culture does not exist, which leads to the bizarre paradox of using cultures that eat either high-carb, high-fat, or both to bolster the idea that this diet is the best for humans. Later in the paper they use this hypothesis and the data from the people of Chole, to estimate a paleo diet that is nothing like the diet of the people of Chole. They published a separate paper on this, which Don at Primal Wisdom has blogged about. I am more skeptical than Don, as I don't believe the diet we evolved on would be close to the upper limit of the % calories of protein that is the estimate for the max capacity of the liver to convert excess nitrogen to urea (35%)*. Their estimated ratios are suspiciously close to the zone diet...
I'm not a fan of the method of deciding what is healthy and then trying to fit the ancestral evidence into it, which seems to be their main method. They repeatedly say that staple carbohydrates weren't part of Paleolithic diets, only citing Cordain, who has no evidence for this. I notice they don't hawk low-fat much explicitly, despite their estimated paleolithic diets, since they are working with data from people eating high-fat. But I digress, because I really just wanted to talk about breast milk here and their breast milk data is great. They have data from the people of Chole, three groups of fish-eating controls (Kerewe, Nyakius, and Nyiramba), four groups from the inland (Hadza- who are foragers, Maasai, Songo, and Iraqiw), plus they presented historical data from Dar Es Salaam and several Western countries.

Here we can see the people from Chole very high amounts of two particular saturated fatty acids: lauric and myristic. The Kerewe have similar levels of myristic and the people of Dar es Salaam have similar levels of lauric. Chole and Dar es Salaam are located in a costal region where palm and coconut trees are abundant. Other places where coconut is eaten frequently like Dominica and Surinam, also had high levels of lauric acid. What about myristic? The authors explain that the Kerewe do not consume coconut, but have a high carbohydrate intake from ugali (a corn/wheat porridge) and muhoho (cassava). They do not explain why other cultures eating a high-carbohydrate diet don't have similar levels or why the levels in the Chole are so high.
Despite it not being mentioned in the paper, the Chole do eat plenty of carbohydrates (though in what amounts remains to be studied). This book mentions that they grow potatoes, corn, millet, squash, cassava, and rice. This ethnography on storytelling also mentions these crops. Here is a woman in New Scientist, pounding rice:

Did their culture change all the sudden? Why aren't the authors mentioning these foods? Out of the blue they say that "carbohydrates cause the highest increase in total cholesterol/HDL cholesterol (Mensink et al., 2003), suggesting an atherosclerosis-promoting effect of the carbohydrate-rich diet of Kerewe." I can't find any evidence that the Kerewe suffer from this condition and considering how similar their diet is to the Kitavans, I suspect that they don't have it.
Apparently you can get lauric and myristic acid from coconut, but there is evidence that carbohydrate-rich diets raise the milk content of medium chain fatty acids as well by de novo synthesis from glucose. I will have to look at the papers cited, but perhaps this mechanism is suppressed somehow in people with excessive linoleic acid in their diets, which would explain why the people of Palestine have low levels, for example. The authors not that in their data set, lauric acid correlates inversely with linoleic acid and positively with DHA and AA.
As for why this carb to medium chain fatty acid mechanism exists, we get no speculation, but another citation to Cordain for the idea that carbohydrate-rich diets were not part of our dietary habits.
No matter how they got there, medium chain fatty acids in breastmilk seem to be beneficial. They are easily absorbable as energy (especially since babies are in ketosis no matter what their mother's diet is), and they have antiviral and antimicrobial properties.
When were coconuts introduced into the human diet? The fact that much of the Paleolithic coastline is underwater and decomposition tends to be rapid in hot humid climates means the fossil evidence is scant. But a silicified coconut fruit was found in the Chinchilla sands in Southern Queensland from 2 million years ago, which suggests that they were widely dispersed even then, since the current origin of the coconut based on genetic studies seems to be East Africa (where humans may have evolved into our modern form) or the American West coast.
The breastmilk of Chole is very low in linoleic acid and pretty high in DHA, though not as high as in the Kerewe. This is not surprising considered their diet, which is rich in seafood.

How much exogenous DHA is needed for infants for optimum brain and eye development is currently under debate. The authors of this book believe that the DHA needs in infants require the mother to consume seafood, or at least large amounts of DHA-rich organs like brain (though insects also are a source of DHA too). I'm not sure this is true myself, but would be curious to see the Hadza (inland foragers) compared to the people of Chole.
Hilariously, the breast milk of Chole VIOLATES formula recommendations of the Commission Directive of 1991 (I hope the recent ones have been revised), which recommend that lauric and myristic fatty acids be no more than 15%. 90% of Chole samples violate this recommendation. They also are too high in Arachidonic acid, which has a bad rap, but it is important for infant brain development and there is evidence its negative effects only occur when omega-3 is low. There is also evidence that infants cannot create enough of the needed AA from precursors.
The unfortunate fact is that often guidelines for synthetic substitutes like formulas are based on "normal" women. And considering the health of the normal people in the US, normal might be a bad thing. This paper points out that current data is taken from populations with high levels of degenerative diseases of civilization. According to nutritionism-ists like Marion Nestle, you need a bunch of studies to show DHA is needed in formula. Studies aren't the be-all and end-all, particularly if they are based on populations that are not living optimally. If I were forced to use formula, I'd rather have it be based on the breastmilk of a healthy population than wait decades for a bunch of studies and continue basing it on a bad dataset.
While I disagree with some assertions in this paper, as they seem to be bent by preconceived notions about macronutrients and the Paleolithic, it is very interesting and points to the need for more studies on populations like that on Chole before vegetable oil is introduced.
*I am working on a different post on this issue.
However, despite treatment, many Type 1 diabetics die prematurely, often having suffered adverse effects from their diabetes, including blindness, nerve damage, kidney disease, skin ulcers, and amputations. Bob Krause, on the other hand, appears to be in great shape (especially bearing in mind his advanced years). What is clear is that Bob has managed his diabetes with meticulous care. What is especially noteworthy is that his eating regime contrasts sharply with the standard advice given to diabetics: Eat three meals a day and include starchy carbohydrates with every meal.
What is noteworthy here besides his success is his low-carb diet, which really honestly doesn't look what more low-carb bloggers eat:
Actually Bob normally eats twice a day. His breakfast is usually made up of nuts with some prunes. His dinner is protein plus salad. He doesn’t eat much. And critically, he doesn’t eat much carbohydrate.
It sounds like CRON (calorie restriction with optimal nutrition) to me.
When reading this I remembered Michelle, a young blogger I had read about in Loren Cordain's newsletter who was having success using the paleo diet. I wonder if many people noticed that she quit the paleo diet?
My sugars started increasing to the 140s-150s in March and I went back on insulin. The diet really wasn't helping. However, I stayed on the paleo diet for a few days but I couldn't take it anymore and started having dairy, grains, and legumes again.
My opinion is that the diet is too restrictive and is very difficult to follow (100%). You almost have to be obsessed with the food that goes in your mouth. I am very happy to have the freedom of my food choices.
Interestingly, Bob Krause's son, who also is type 1, couldn't follow his father's footsteps:
And though Tom Krause inherited his father's diabetes, he doesn't share his father's regimented control of the illness.
"My dad, he is just a machine in how well he cares and manages his diabetes, with his willpower and how long he's been doing it," Tom Krause said.
I get the sense that Bob is a person with unusual willpower and obsessiveness. It makes sense that he was an engineer. I understand why Tom and Michelle had trouble. I did CRON strict paleo for awhile and thought it was hell. Anyone who is even slightly disorganized or who actually likes food is going to have trouble on such a diet.
But here is a story from Robb Wolf's blog about a young man who did a strict paleo diet and eventually was able to eat more carbs. But the article notes that even Robb Wolf says that only 5% of his type 1D patients have that kind of recovery.
What do you think? Do you think you could follow an extremely strict diet where cheating means serious illness if it meant better long term health?
Ever since I quit coffee, I've had some issues with afternoon fatigue. Around 2 I would just feel sleepy. I thought about this a little and concluded that lighting might be the issue. You see my office has standard craporific overhead lighting. Since most programmers have OCD or some other neurosis, they turn it off. I had a crappy desk lamp, but it wasn't very bright. So I splurged and bought a Verilux desk lamp.
I'm not going to pretend it's beautiful and it did cause some heckling from officemates, but I've been using it for two weeks and so far my energy levels are much better. Of course going outside would be even better, but it's been kind of crappy outside lately.
It might help my mood, but this afternoon it failed to counteract the effects of listening to the new Radiohead album, which made me feel emo.
I also got some nice blackout curtains. I had been using aluminum foil because I was being cheap, but it fell down and made creepy noises in the wind. I noticed that the price for the curtains had dropped on Amazon and I bought these. They are MUCH better than aluminum foil.
I also noticed that the price for those light-alarm clocks had dropped and I bought the cheapest one, but I noticed it's gone now and I understand why. It's SO much better than my cell phone as an alarm, but my model is truly buggy.
When I was a freelancer and I worked from home it wasn't so obvious to me why Americans are so unhealthy. Now it's tottally obvious. Cooking and the housekeeping the accompanies it takes time and when every adult member of the household works 40 hours a week, that becomes very difficult. It's even worse because most people don't particularly enjoy their jobs and would like to come home and do something they enjoy. Wouldn't it be great if everyone loved cooking? But it just doesn't work that way.
I don't have children and I struggle to cook every day. What's the point of all the productivity gains we've made if we all have to work the same amount of hours? When I first started working I once tallied up the percentage of my life that would be spent at work or commuting at the current rate and it was too depressing a calculation to repeat.
Housekeeping is very difficult when there is no one keeping house, when it's an afterthought in an exhausting day. Me? I'd love to work fewer hours and while I'd have to cut back on some things, I feel my quality of life would be higher. But there aren't many jobs available for 15 or even 30 hours a week and almost none provide any kind of benefits.
Perhaps we should just give up and acknowledge that the price of the American workforce is that few people have time to cook healthy meals. Then we need to focus on having better restaurants. Right now if you are eating out a lot, you are probably getting tons of vegetable oil. Even Thomas Keller, Michelin-Starred Chef, uses canola oil at his enourmously expensive restaurants.
Workplaces could also pick up some slack, but in an era of budget cuts, few will. You are lucky if your workplace has a microwave and even luckier if it has a fridge. I know a few highly-skilled technology workers at very succesfull companies where they have excellent food, but that's an exception.
The idea that career is a form of fulfillment is a fantasy for all but a lucky few. In reality, this idea is just a way to make people feel better about having to give their lives away for trivial things. By the time they retire, their health is so battered that they spend the remaining years shoveling pills into their mouths in a nursing home. It's time to put work back in its place- it's a way to make a living for most of us and a lot of us would be willing to trade off some income for more time. More time to acquire healthy food, cook it, keep house, spend time with our own children, enjoy life...
This article in the NYtimes just bolsters the fact that our lifestyles are untenable: sitting is deadly. Um, that's a problem since most jobs involve sitting. i'm not sure that standing in one place at a standing desk is really that much better, though it's a start.
The Paleo Flashmob at Chipotle Test Kitchen is tomorrow! I hope that you are coming if you can! If you are going, check out Stephan's newest post on omega-6.
We are also visiting the Kings County Jerky store on Sunday to see their grass-fed local offerings!
Movement instructor Lee Saxby will be speaking on the 20th. I don't know much about him, but I'm looking forward to hearing about him!
On May 14th Chris Masterjohn will be talking about traditional foods! I'm super biased about Chris since he is my boyfriend, but I also think it will be awesome. Even before we were dating I was impressed by his talks.
For everyone, I created a new links page that's more up to date and dynamic than just having static links. I always had trouble because I'd discover great new blogs and then forget to link them or blogs I'd link to would become defunct. I hope you like what's there.
And a random song to remind us how little we know :)
I'm dedicating this week to Soybean Oil, an ingredient I think all rational people should be able to rally against. Despite massive amounts of scientific evidence that large amounts of omega-6 oils are bad for anyone, this ingredient remains common in our food supply.
This year I was VERY VERY disapointed to find that Chipotle uses it in almost all their ingredients besides their pork. I don't know why I never knew this, I guess it was an instance of "maybe if I don't look at the ingredients I don't be upset."

Chipotle is one of the rare fast food outlets that tries to source meat decently and the salad bowl has been a favorite of mine for a long time.
This week I'm going to devote a blog post a day on why we shouldn't use this ingredient. This will culminate in a paleo flashmob of sorts at the Chipotle Test Kitchen in NYC. If you are in New York, please join us!



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